Useful as the Chrysanthemum undoubtedly is when grown into large bush specimens for conservatory embellishment, or in the various other ways in which it is trained and cultivated, there is no form in which it can be grown that is more useful to the gardener than that of growing it in small pots for stands or vases for indoor furnishing. These plants when properly cultivated in small pots are so useful for arranging en masse at the base of large mirrors, or for grouping together in stands in their different colours, as well as forming front lines to groups of plants, that it is a wonder they are not more generally employed for the purposes above described.

The reason may, however, be explained to some extent by the fact that the mode of cultivation which is necessary in order to secure dwarf plants for such a purpose is not generally understood.

It may appear strange to many cultivators of the Chrysanthemum to learn that the month of August is the proper time to propagate for this purpose; but of course the ultimate result depends a good deal upon the strength and condition of the cuttings when they are taken, and to the treatment they receive while they are forming roots. The plan of propagating that I have found to succeed best is to raise a gentle hotbed by collecting a little short grass and leaves, and mixing them well together so as to generate a gentle moist heat. This being done, a number of small sixty-sized pots - say from fifty to a hundred, as the case may be - should be got in readiness, by having them clean washed and a single crock placed in the bottom of each pot for drainage. The pots should then be filled to within half-an-inch of their surface with a liberal compost of good loam and rotten dung well incorporated together. The next point of importance is the selection of cuttings in a proper condition. These should be taken from bush-plants that are growing vigorously after the "bud is formed" - or set, as the common phrase goes - about the second week in August. The secret of success lies in having the bud just formed, and in rooting the plant as quickly as possible.

When the cuttings are being inserted a hole should be made in the centre of the soil in each pot, into which put a little leaf-mould and sand mixed, and press the cutting firmly into it, then plunge the pots into the bed already prepared for their reception, and dew over through a fine syringe. The plants should never be allowed to see the sun nor to droop a leaf while they are rooting, as their beauty depends in a great measure upon their being furnished with fine glossy leaves. As they are found to be rooting, gradually withdraw the shade, and keep the soil in the pots loose on the surface. The bottom-heat will be daily on the decline as the plants are rooting, and air should be admitted more or less as the plants will stand it, until they will bear exposure altogether, by which time the heat in the bed will have died out, and the sashes may be removed from over the plants. All the buds should be removed when large enough but the centre or conical one, before the latter gets distorted by the smaller buds pressing against it.

A sharp-pointed stick with the point slightly bruised between the teeth answers well for the purpose, and is not likely if it touches the main bud to puncture it.

The small pots are best kept plunged all through the autumn, but there should be some hard substance placed under the bottom of each to keep the roots from travelling outside the pot. The plants require extra attention in watering, and should be frequently supplied with liquid manure, even while the buds are expanding, at which time they should be removed to a shelf in a light airy structure, and kept at a temperature of 55°, with air on night and day, except in case of excessive damp or frost. In the former case the temperature should fall five degrees at night, and the atmosphere of the house should be thoroughly dried up before the house is closed in, as excessive moisture condensing on the opening flowers is likely to spoil some of the petals and thus spoil the symmetry of the flower. The object of the warmth is to "grow out the petals to their full length," and the liquid manure will assist to produce substance and breadth of petal as well as colour.

The varieties best adapted for this purpose are the "self-incurved" sorts, such as George Glenny, Mrs George Rundle, Mrs Dixon, Prince Alfred, Little Pet, General Bainbridge, White Globe, Sir Stafford Carey, Mr Gladstone, General Slade, St Patrick, and Blonde Beauty. I may remark, in concluding, that flowers grown as I have described are not to be supposed as being inferior in any way to those grown upon large plants - their great beauty and attractiveness being in the fine large flowers; while the plants are so small that they can be used either singly or in groups for almost any purpose. W. Hinds.