Is it necessary to pot Pine suckers into small pots when taken from the old plants, shifting them on as required until the size is gained in which it is intended to fruit them? One thing in favour of small pots is, that a quantity of suckers can be put into less space. But when the full space can be devoted to them at first, there is a great saving of labour, and time is gained in fruiting by putting them into the pots in which they are to fruit. There is no check to the roots when potted on the one-shift system; and the system has great advantages in the case of suckers taken rather late in autumn, with the object of their being kept on the move all winter, to be got forward for fruiting the following autumn. Let it be supposed that good suckers are taken about the end of August, and that a quantity of new or well-washed 11-inch pots are in readiness. This size will be found quite large enough to grow fruit of good medium size for everyday consumption. Let them be thoroughly well drained, to the depth of at least two and a half inches, the last layer of crocks being rather fine, with a little rough loam or moss sprinkled over them, and all well dusted with soot to prevent worms from getting up into the soil, and to act as a stimulant to those roots that reach it.

The soil is the next consideration, and we prefer a rather light fibry loam, that has been lying in a stack for twelve months, chopped up, and rejecting all that goes through a 3/4 inch sieve. The fibry part is all looked over, and nicely pulled to pieces by the hand, not making it too fine, but leaving it nice and rough. To every barrow-load add a 6-inch potful of soot, one of bone-meal, and one of half-inch bones; the latter, besides enriching the soil, helps to keep it open. The meal acts quickly, which is of importance now that plants are fruited off in not much more than half the time required formerly. In potting, each plant should be well firmed round the collar, for it will be observed that a plant that is firmly potted roots much more quickly than one which is left loose in the soil. If the soil is as described, let it be well beaten with a rammer: this is held by good growers to be an essential point, and its results prove it to be so. If space can be spared, put the plant into the house intended to fruit them, putting each in its proper position at once, so that there is no need for removing them afterwards. Scarcely any plant looks worse than a Pine when its foliage is broken and hanging about in an untidy manner.

Set them on a hard and level bottom before filling up between the pots, which should be done up to their rims. If plunged in old tan, or material that will not cause too strong a heat, let it be pressed quite firmly; if the tan be fresh, heat will get too violent, and it should be laid loosely but higher between the pots. If the heat rises higher than wanted, take hold of each pot, and move it backwards and forwards several times. This will leave a space all round, which lets extra heat escape; when it cools down, press the tan close to the pots.

In the first stages of Pine-growing, we think bottom-heat is not so much wanted as is generally considered. If these young Pines were treated to a high bottom-heat, with a corresponding top-temperature, in which there would have to be a good amount of moisture, the plants, before ever they begin to throw out roots, would get long and weakly, and the centre quite close and blanched like Celery. If it ranges about 70°, so much the better for the plants. Let the house be kept pretty close, with gentle dewings night and morning on bright days, sprinkling the paths frequently, if found requisite, with but slight shading only when the sun continues bright for a length of time. The night temperature of the atmosphere may range about 70° for the first fortnight, or until the plants show signs of starting into growth; and as the nights get longer, range the heat a few degrees lower, letting the temperature rise considerably in the day, when it can be done by sun-heat. If the house is light, and the plants not too far from the glass, they will grow gently all the winter; and when the days begin to lengthen, then their advantage over those that were taken at the same time and put into small pots to be potted on in spring will be apparent.

If all goes well, they will be dwarf, stiff plants by the end of May, when they should be rested for a month or six weeks, during which time give little or no water - no more than will keep the plants from suffering; and with a moderate top and bottom heat they will stiffen a good deal in this time. When fruit is wanted by Christmas, increased heat should be applied about the middle of June. Now is the time that the bottom-heat is of most importance in getting all to start, and with a corresponding top-heat, they should nearly all be showing fruit in six weeks. Whenever they have fairly started to grow, we apply guano about every other watering; but after fruit shows, at every watering, until the fruit begins to colour. "Whenever I can adopt the above practice I do so, there being less labour attending it, and there are several things in its favour. I think the planting out system is a good one, only a whole house has often to stand empty for a few plants to finish off. When in pots they can be removed into a vinery or any other spare place, a] though a little lower in temperature, when just beginning to change colour - they will not take any hurt; but not before their colouring has commenced.

If full space cannot be devoted to them when put into 11-inch pots at first, and they are plunged pot to pot, not much more room will be taken up than when they are put into 8-inch pots.

A. Henderson. Thoresby Gardens.