Before this appears in- print the planting season will not have gone. The planting season is really much longer than is generally accepted, for, with care and judgment, it may be done at any time, except during frost. The best time, however, for Evergreens is immediately after their growth is made for the season, say, as a rule, after August; for deciduous plants, just after their foliage has fallen. If planting cannot be done until spring, it is a good plan to have all the plants moved in autumn, and laid into loose earth to wait their time. We had occasion to lift many hundreds of all sorts of Evergreens last autumn in order that the ground they occupied might be remodelled; now, when they are being replanted, they are bristling with young roots ready to lay hold of the soil. Plants being lifted for the first time do not show the same precocity.

March is perhaps a less favourable month for transplanting than either February or April. Moist weather and short days are preferable to the longer days and dry winds of March, although March, so far, has been favourable. The earth begins to get warmer in April and the air moister, and it is probably the best month for moving coniferous subjects. We have some dozens of Deodars, 12 to 16 feet high, and other trees and Conifers of small size yet to move. When to plant is, however, generally determined by circumstances: how to plant is not. The ground, whether for clumps, beds, belts, or single specimens, should be trenched at least 18 inches deep, turning down the sod to the bottom; in the case of single specimens on grass, a much larger site should be trenched than is really necessary for the spread of the roots, and in this case special care should be taken not to plant deep. Deep-planting on untrenched ground is a great evil; the loose soil is readily waterlogged, which never can happen in trenched ground; the roots are also in a box of unstirred earth which is practically impenetrable, whereas a tree planted high has the chance and choice of rooting along the surface-soil. Many trees linger out a stunted life, or die from deep-planting alone.

Stays or stakes of some sort are absolutely necessary to all newly-planted trees and large shrubs; dwarf shrubs with balls do not require this precaution. In the case of specimen trees, three wires stretched equidistant from a collar of straw, or a piece of an old nail-bag, the other end of the wires secured to plugs in the ground sunk overhead in the turf, is most effectual and sightly. In planting, all roots should be laid out horizontally, not in a whorl or layer, but at right angles to the stem of the plant at the various points of issue; this to be performed as the soil is being filled in. We prefer not to tread the soil until the hole is well filled up, then one good treading is given.

The manner of lifting a tree or shrub is of equal importance, or really of more importance, in large plants, than the planting of them with a view to their future success. We lately received two large batches of Evergreens: the one lot was beautifully lifted, the roots entire to their extremities, like a newly-made birch broom; the other lot had their roots cut short with the spade, as if a turfing-iron had been shoved along underneath the nursery-row, the object being to get them out of the ground with the least labour possible, their roots being like the said birch broom when worn to the handle. It is an axiom of a friend of ours, largely engaged in planting, that he don't want a ball to any tree if he gets the roots. What to plant, is a proposition somewhat embarrassing, from the wealth of beautiful subjects now at command for all sorts of positions and purposes, whether for bedding, massing, or specimens. Japan and China furnish us with a rich variety of Evergreens, shrubby and coniferous. Effects can now be produced in shrub-bedding for the winter-garden, equal in interest, if less showy from the colour points of view, to summer bedding with flowers.

Rhododendrons, the hybrid varieties, with their endless forms and aspects, as well as for their unsurpassing beauty while in bloom, take the first rank; they grow perfectly in light turfy loam, much better than in some sorts of peat, which, like old garden-soil, is like poison to them. Then come Aucuba, Laurestinus, Thujas aurea, Tar-tarica, and Warreana, and the Colchian Laurel Kalmias. For small beds and edgings there are the numerous Heaths, especially Mediteranea and Carnea, Perrettya, Berberis Darwinii, Golden and Silver Queen Hollies. Retinospora ericoides has a colour vying with some of the coloured Kales, and Retinospora pisifera aurea makes quite a yellow bed for winter, or for edging. Periwinkles, green and variegated, and specially the beautiful Euonymus radicans variegata, one of the hardiest of Japan things. Of berried things for winter there are the Coton-easters. Rigida is of good size, and will be scarlet with bunches of its bright berries. Simmondsii, of dwarfer habit and more elegant, shows itself better than Microphylla.

Of plants for specimens on lawns or shrubberies it would be impossible to name more than a few, and these will be favourites; and first of all Lawson's Cypress, with its profusion at present of beautiful vermilion blossom buds - we still stick to the old pendulous variety; Juniperus Chinensis, a companion plant with its yellowish blossom buds and fine green foliage; Libocedros Chilensis and Decurrens, Thujopsis borealis, and Dolabrata. In the south Auricaria imbricata will still be planted; it delights in a bleak position and a sandy peat soil, or indeed in anything open. On the contrary, Wellingtonia, which we are not aware has a fault, must be planted in sound moist soil; indeed the finest and healthiest growth we ever saw the big tree make, was on a trenched bed of moist clay well drained and in a sheltered hollow. Of Pines for specimens, the finest, to our mind, are Picea lasiocarpa and Pinsapo, and Abies Douglassii.

The Squire's Gardener.