Give careful attention to all ripe Grapes still hanging on the Vines. They should be examined at least three times a-week, and all decaying berries removed. If the Vines are at all thickly set with leaves, let a portion of them be removed, so as to admit a more free circulation of air about the fruit and Vines as a whole. Do not let the temperature decline below 45° at any time, nor run higher than 50°. When the weather is wet or foggy, keep the front ventilators closely shut, with just warmth enough in the pipes to keep the heat as directed, and the air in circulation with a very little air at the highest part of the house, but so that no falling damp can drop into the house. When the weather is dry, increase the heat slightly early in the day, and ventilate more freely. Keep the surface of borders, and everything else inside the vinery, as dry as possible; should the border crack, run a little dry earth into the crack. Where the setting of plants under Grapes yet to cut cannot be avoided, the crop may be cut and kept in a dry room, on the bottling system, now adopted in many cases with success. When the Vines in the early vinery have made about half an inch of a start, raise the night temperature to about 58°, increasing it 5° to 8° by day.

If the early crop is from pot-Vines, and is required to ripen with the loss of as little time as possible, the temperature may range a few degrees higher than for permanent Vines. As a rule, avoid high night temperatures all through the dull sunless months, and reserve the harder forcing for the longer days and brighter sun. All vineries shut up last month with the intention of being started with artificial heat this month, will be much more likely to break freely and regularly if a bed of fermenting leaves and litter be placed on the inside border to be turned over in portions every day. This is not only good practice, as far as the results are concerned, but it saves coal. The outside borders of such vineries should, at least, be well protected from wet and cold, and will be the better of a bed of warm leaves and litter for three months at least, or till the roots of the Vines come vigorously into action. It is, however, our conviction, that to begin forcing permanent Vines with roots in an outside border is a waste of labour and wrong in principle, seeing that as good crops can be produced with far more uniform success and certainty from pot-Vines. Prune all Vines from which the fruit is cut; divest them of loose bark, and dress them with a thick coating of flower of sulphur, soot, cow manure, and loam in equal proportions, adding about the size of an egg of soft soap to every gallon.

This dressing is especially desirable where there has been red-spider last season. At the same time, thoroughly wash all woodwork and glass, and paint it if necessary; and when all is done, remove the loose surface soil, replacing it with loam, having some bones and horse-droppings mixed with it. See that young Vines intended for planting in spring are secure from frost, that they do not get meally dry at the root, and are kept in a cool airy place. Cut them now to the desired length. Now is a good time to collect turf for the formation of new borders. To get rid of wireworm, collect it when frozen, and if possible place it under cover to be mixed with other ingredients; at all events, avoid chopping and mixing it while wet. Young Vines planted last year should be cut down immediately they have shed all their leaves.