We would first plant common ivy against the exterior boundary wall, but not against the wall which separates the two back gardens. This ivy, if of the common kind, will require no farther attention whatever; but, if giant ivy be planted, it will require nailing, especially when it reaches the coping of the wall, as its c|aspers do not adhere nearly so well to brickwork as the common ivy. Against the wall which separates the two gardens we would plant evergreen and deciduous magnolias, Ceanothus azureus, Pho-tinia serrulata, Stranvaesia glauca, Eriobotrya japonica, Mahhonia fascicularia, and M. Aquifolium, etc.; Jasminum revolution; Cydonia japonica (not because it requires a wall, but because, if the blossom buds are picked off before expanding during summer, the plant will continue in bloom all the winter); Chimonanthus fragrans; the Banksian, Macartney, and other evergreen roses; and various climbers and twiners, such as the fragrant Chinese and Japan honeysuckles, perpetual-flowering roses, wistaria, tecoma, passiflora, etc. If the direction of the wall be north and south, then these kinds may be placed on both sides of it; but, if it should be east and west, then the mow tender plants should be placed only on the south side.

It may be observed here, that many trees and shrubs, which are considered somewhat tender, thrive better on the north side of a wall than on the south side, provided they are planted in dry soil, not too rich. The reason is, they are not so soon excited by the action of the sun in spring, and consequently not so liable to have their buds and young shoots injured by spring frosts. On the other hand, from the want of sun, to ripen their fruit in autumn, they are more liable to be injured by the. frosts of that season; but this evil may be greatly lessened by keeping the soil pure, and dry, which will prevent the plants from making long succulent shoots, which can only be ripened by the full influence of the sun. All the plants above named, with the exception of ceanothus and eriobotrya,, will succeed perfectly in. a northern. exposure, if the border be properly prepared with sand and lime rubbish, and the subsoil rendered thoroughly dry. Immediately within, the exterior boundary walls, of both gardens, we would plant a row of low-growing evergreen trees, at regular distances, among which we would include all the variegated hollies (unless these were abundant in the adjoining gardens), the box, the arbor vitae, the common cypress, the red cedar, and;, in some places, the evergreen and Lucombe oaks, and the cork-tree. These trees, after they have grown 2 or 3 feet higher than the wall, will form, from the windows of both houses, a foreground to the exterior scenery; and, therefore, in planting them, the tall and broad-headed kinds, such as the evergreen and Lucombe oaks, ought only to be planted where there is something to conceal; and the tall narrow-growing kinds, such as the common cypress, the arbor vitae, etc, where the exterior objects are required to be only slightly disguised.

Where the objects beyond the boundary are such as may be looked on at all seasons with pleasure, such as trees, shrubs, or turf, then frees, of low and slow growth may be employed instead of the larger ones, such as the arbutus, the myrtle-leaded box, etc. Within this outer boundary of trees, the ground may be sprinkled with evergreen and deciduous low trees and shrubs, in the manner indicated in the plan; none of these shrubs being planted in large masses, so as to require large breadths of dug soil; but in small groups, and nothing done to the soil round them, except preventing the grass from. growing on a space about 1 ft. in diameter round the stem of each tree or shrub. This will prevent the grass from injuring the plants while young; and, what is of great practical importance, prevent the risk of injury to the tree or shrub, from the scythe of the mower. In a few years, when the shrubs have acquired strength, the grass may be allowed to spread as near to their stems as the closeness and shade produced by their branches will admit.

It will be observed, that, though we recommend keeping a naked space round each plant for several years, till it has acquired sufficient strength, we by no means recommend digging this space, except in the case of standard roses, for the more tender kinds of which digging is necessary for the sake of applying manure.