Whoever grows wheat or any other farm crop, knows that the soil will not maintain its fertility without manure. He knows that however rich a virgin soil may be, it cannot long remain rich without his artificial aid. Hence, an annual manuring becomes, in time, as necessary as an annual sowing of seeds. How few remember this in orchard management. The tree has to flourish in the same soil for years, - or perchance after all the best of the soil has been taken away by regular farm crops, and then comes the "Wonder why our climate will not grow trees as it once did." Soils cannot well be too rich for fruit trees; not to have manure dug deeply in, but spread on the surface. Possibly we suffer more from the apple and plum borer than we one time did, but these are so easily kept out by oil paper about the collar of the tree, that excuses for not raising fruit, on account of injury to the trees by borers, is only exhibiting one's laziness. Fire blight and plum knot may be easily kept under, and the curculio "fixed" by Hull-catchers. The codlin moth may be pretty well kept under by persistence in destroying wormy apples, so that with the exception of leaf blight and injuries from frost, there is really no formidable obstacle to the way of successful fruit growing. Leaf blight is not yet mastered.

If it is true, as appears probable, that the fungus which produces the effect we see, can only germinate in a high temperature, we may, by taking steps to keep the great reflection from our summer sun parched soil from operating on the leaves, yet master this last great evil.

Grapes in cold vineries will now be of a size fit for thinning. In those cases where the bunches are intended to hang long on the vines, they should be thinned out more severely than those expected to be cut early. A close, compact bunch favors mildew and early decay.

Fine, rich color is always esteemed as one of the criterions whereby to judge of the excellence of a fruit. Sun light is of first importance; but it is not generally known that this is injurious when in excess. In a dry atmosphere, with great sun-heat, where the evaporating process goes on faster than the secretive principle, what should become a rich rosy blush in a fruit, is changed to a sickly yellow; and the rich jet black of a grape becomes a foxy red. Some grape-growers of eminence, in view of the facts, shade their vineries during the coloring process; but others, instead, keep the atmosphere as close and moist as possible. The latter course detracts from the flavor of the fruit. The best plan is that which combines both practices.

Watch newly planted fruit trees. If they have but a few weak leaves only, it shows the roots have been injured; then prune them severely, which will make them grow freely. It should be a main object to make all transplanted trees not merely have leaves, but have new shoots at the earliest possible moment. If they are growing very well, they may be allowed to perfect a few fruit. Overbearing on a newly planted tree is, however, one of the best ways of making it stunted for years.

Strawberries, when in grown hills, - the most laborious but the most productive method of growing them, - should have runners cut off as they grow, and the surface soil kept loose by shallow hoeings occasionally. Short litter, half rotten, as a mulch, is also beneficial. Lawn mowings are often applied, but with little benefit. Where they are grown in beds, they should not be too thick, as they starve one another, and the crop next year will be poor.

Blackberries are not always ripe when they are black. Leave them on till they part readily from their stalks.

Gooseberries should have the soil, and even the plants, if it were practicable, shaded a little. Dry air about them is one great cause of mildew.

Peas for a fall crop may be sown. It is, however, useless to try them, unless in a deeply trenched soil, and one that is comparatively cool in the hottest weather overhead, or they will certainly mildew and prove worthless. In England, where the atmosphere is so much more humid than ours, they nevertheless have great difficulty in getting fall peas to get through free from mildew; and to obviate these drying and mildew-producing influences, they often plant them in deep trenches, made as for celery, and are then much more successful with them.

Cabbage and Broccoli may still be set out for fall crops, also requiring an abundance of manure to insure success.

Lettuce, where salads are in much request, may yet be sown. The Curled Indian is a favorite summer kind; but the varieties of Cos, or Plain-leaved kinds, are good. They take more trouble, having to be tied up to blanch well. Many should not be sown at a time, as they soon run to seed in hot weather.

Endive is becoming very popular as a winter salad. Now this is the time to sow. The Curl-leaved is the most desirable. Sow it like Lettuce.

Celery for early use is often planted out this month, though for winter use July or August will be early enough. It is best to set out in shallow trenches, for convenience in watering, the celery being fond of hydropathic appliances. If the ground has been deeply subsoiled, and the subsoil well enriched, the trenches may be near a foot in depth, for convenience in blanching; but beware of planting down in poor, barren subsoil. Many plant in double rows. Where very superior celery is not an object, this will do, but the single row system is the best for excellence. The season is now arriving when the advantages of subsoiled ground will be apparent. In such soil plants will grow freely though there be no rain for many weeks. Some of our best growers now plant entirely on the surface, and depend on drawing up the soil, or the employment of boards or other artificial methods of blanching.

Cucumbers for pickling may be sown this month.

Parsley for winter use may be sown now in boxes of rich soil, and set in a cool, shady place till it germinates.

Asparagus beds should not be cut after the stalks seem to come up strong, or there will be but a poor crop next season, and the beds will "run out," in a few years.

The Swede Turnip or Ruta Baga should be sown about the end of the month. A well-enriched piece of ground is essential, as by growing fast they get ahead of the ravages of the fly. Manures abounding in the phosphates - bone-dust, for instance, - are superior for the turnip.

Sweet potatoes must be watched, that the vines do not root in the ground as they run, which will weaken the main crop of roots. They should be gone over about once a month, and with a rake or pole, the vines disturbed somewhat from their position.