In your October number I find an article headed, "Tuberose bulbs flowering after hard freezing." I think this heading is misleading; so I give my experience. Some years since I had just such a state of affairs as Mrs. Thomson describes. I had packed my sets and small bulbs in barrels, and covered the barrels with hay. But we had an unusually cold snap, and my bulbs were frozen, - so I thought. I found, however, in spring on examining my barrels that only about 6 inches around the sides, top, and bottom of the barrels, was frozen, and a small space in the middle of each barrel was perfectly safe and, I am satisfied, was not reached by the frost at all; the outside, that first froze, protecting the inside of the barrel, on the same principle as 6 inches of earth piled around a bank of sweet potatoes will protect them from frost. After an experience of fourteen years in growing Tuberose bulbs I am persuaded that an actual freeze will destroy both flower-germ and bulb. But I know that small bulbs left in the ground over winter, where the ground froze say 2 inches, have bloomed for me as well as if taken up and kept in the greenhouse, and that of 60,000 small bulbs left in the ground when it froze 6 inches last year, not one ever showed a leaf.

Now, Mr. Editor, I hesitated to speak of your comments on Mrs. Thomson's article, but as you infer you wish facts I give them as I see them. First you say, if a bulb is dug in the fall before it is inclined to rest naturally, the embryo flower is not formed and will consequently not bloom in the spring when planted.

My observation leads me to say that there is no natural rest for a growing Tuberose bulb but the perfection of its flowers. The taking up and drying of bulbs in the fall, or their growth being stopped before blooming, by frost, is not a natural rest. We have to dig our earliest plantings the latter part of September to keep them from flowering. Secondly, that a half-grown bulb dug in the fall, kept from frost and planted in spring will flower when it attains its full growth, which it does here the latter part of August and in September.

My observation further leads me to say, that a full grown bulb needs more care in the winter than a half-grown one or a small set, for this rea son: In all the embryonic flower is present, but in the small ones so far down in the solid part of the bulb as to be very much protected; in the fully developed bulb the embryonic flower has come up in the neck of the bulb where it is easily affected by cold, and if once touched it will not flower, but decay. Hence I find full grown bulbs that I know would flower next year, if left in the ground here, make nothing but tares. While half-grown bulbs left in the same ground will keep on growing next year and bloom when fully grown.

One great difficulty in growing Tuberoses for bloom, by florists and others, is to get bulbs with the flower buds too far advanced, or just ready to bloom before being dug. Such bulbs are liable to be injured by very little cold and are consequently worse than useless. Fayetteville, N. C.