I have read that stable manure is not good for strawberries. They say - I do not know who, but I suppose people who are looked up to - that it makes the plants run to leaf when we want fruit and not foliage. I am only an amateur and have only a small garden, but I love that little garden and the strawberries that grow there. I like to note how this thing does and that thing does, and sometimes I think I know as much as '* they " whoever they are. Now - perhaps I may be voted a horticultural heretic - but I am bound to express my views, I do not believe stable manure hurts strawberries one bit, but believe the more they get the better. There now ! I feel easier. My mind is relieved.

I like - I am writing as an amateur in a small way - I like to make a new plantation of strawberries every year, and let the plants stand two years. I like to get the plants as strong as possible - young runners, and plant in September. But you ought to see how I manure my bed before I put the plants in ! Two inches deep; - as rotten as we can get it, - and the ground dug as deeply as the fork will go. This lasts for the whole two years. I like to preserve the leaves green and fresh all winter, for you know the strawberry is naturally an evergreen, and like all evergreens, suffers by losing its leaves before its time comes. A very thin layer of rye straw spread over the plants keeps the leaves green and fresh. This is so thin that the earth can be seen everywhere through it. It is surprising how little straw will keep the leaves green. If I had not straw handy, I would use leaves, or any other littery matter that would not blow away. If too deep a layer be placed over the leaves, it may injure by rotting.

The leaves need only the thickest rays of the sun broken.

In the spring, as soon as the ground is dry enough, the ground is hoed to keep from caking, and also to keep weeds down.

Mulch is often recommended by some writers to keep the ground cool and nice. My ground does not need this but it keeps the fruit nice and clean, so, after the second hoeing, just as the flowers are opening I put corn-stalks, between the rows right up under the plants; after the fruit is gathered, I take up the stalks. In my small patch of 100 feet by 70 feet this is no great task. I then keep the ground hoed and clean all summer, cutting off all runners that come between the rows, but letting the plants grow together in the row if they will.

The second year is the great year. The treatment is just the same as the year before. I do not bother about hoeing after this second season's crop is cut. If however I want to get a few hundred plants for setting out for a new bed, I fork up a piece between the rows, well manure it, peg down the first plants that appear, pinching the runner back so that it produces only one plant. Then I have beautiful plants for the September setting.

Now as I have said I am only an amateur, but I can beat any strawberries I see in the stores. If any one can tell me how to do better, I would love to learn. Frankford, Philadelphia.