This section is from "The Horticulturist, And Journal Of Rural Art And Rural Taste", by P. Barry, A. J. Downing, J. Jay Smith, Peter B. Mead, F. W. Woodward, Henry T. Williams. Also available from Amazon: Horticulturist and Journal of Rural Art and Rural Taste.
In the arrangement of the grounds about country houses, a frequent cause of dissatisfaction is the want of connection between the building and surrounding scenery. A sloping lawn, running directly to the base of the house without any intervening object, always appears defective. In some cases, where the grounds are contracted, even a walk running parallel with, and surrounding at least the principal fronts of the house, will be found sufficient. But where a terrace can be introduced, although only of a few feet in width, it conveys a pleasing air of propriety to the dwelling; and, carrying art beyond the mere form of the house, its vertical and horizontal lines are blended by degrees with the accidental undulations of surface. It is not to be inferred that we recommend huge sod-banks to be raised on a level with the first floor, as may frequently be seen. Many fine buildings have their just architectural proportions completely marred by the quantity of earth piled round their base, looking as if half submerged. It is a wonder that architects do not pay more attention to this subject, and not only suit the style of architecture to the locality, but also provide for the necessary improvements being conducted without abridging its beauty of composition.
Houses finished with heavy cornices, are much improved when surrounded with a broad platform, or esplanade, supported by a low wall, with balustrade on top; a proper position for the display of vases and other artificial objects. An extended terrace of this description on the private front, may embrace a small flower garden in the strictly geometrical style, which will be in good keeping with statuary, sun-dials, fountains, and other works of art.
The lateness of the season admonishes us to proceed, with all possible dispatch, with planting. Deciduous trees and shrubs should be attended to first; evergreens may be transplanted with perfect safety even after growth has commenced. The details of planting have been so often ably reverted to in these pages, that it is unnecessary to enlarge upon the subject here. The disposition of the trees with regard to individual or combined beauty, will also exercise the mind of the judicious planter. Trees of distinct character, as the weeping willow and Lombardy poplar, are said to be "dangerous in the hands of beginners;" yet, what a beautiful group they form when combined. Plantations of round-headed trees alone, appear heavy and tiresome; relieve them by a few larches, or deciduous cypress, and how changed the effect! the contrasts give animation to the scene. Again, what variety might be introduced by contrasting trees with reference to their changing colors in autumn, or even in their various shades of green during budding spring? No one who appreciates the beauty and adaptability of trees, will be deterred from planting this because it is common, or that, because it is ugly.
Beauty and deformity are only relative appellations.
Evergreen and deciduous trees should not be indiscriminately mixed. For summer shade, the sugar, silver, and scarlet maples, ash, elm, etc, should be planted near the house; evergreens are valuable for shelter, but have a disagreeable effect in winter when placed too near the south side of buildings. A house nestling on the sunny side of an evergreen plantation, suggests comfort and cheerfulness; place too many evergreens in front, and the effect is cold and gloomy. Free growing kinds, as Norway spruce, white pine, and Scotch fir, are well adapted for planting where rapid growth and shelter are desired. Some of the finest spruce and rare pines may be planted singly. Placing them on mounds slightly elevated above the adjoining surface, increases and exhibits their beauty to the greatest advantage. The evergreen and deciduous plantings may be made to blend gradually into each other, by the skilful introduction of larches and deciduous cypress. These are deciduous, but partake of the conical outline of the majority of evergreens.
It may not be a useless repetition to remark, that every care should be given to guarding against the drying of the roots during the process of removal and planting; and that pruning of the branches should follow pruning of the roots - in other words, the branches require shortening back when there has been much mutilation of roots. Filling up the hole to allow for sinkage of the soil, securing the plants by stakes, and mulching over the surface, are points which will not be overlooked.
Evergreens may be yet planted. The past winter has abridged our list of hardy sorts. Euonymus Japonica is done brown; that graceful plant, the Deodar cedar has also been sorely tried. It cannot be serviceable when a permanent evergreen tree is desired. We must confide in our well-tried and trustworthy Mends, the Norway and hemlock spruce, white pine, Bhotan pine, Scotch and Austrian firs, arbor vitae, balsam, and silver firs, and the red cedar. Prune out all dead wood at once; many plants that appear hurt, have their buds uninjured, therefore it may be necessary to proceed with caution until growth commences. The remarks of last month on this head are still in season.
 
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