About the last week in May, choose a plot of not over-rich soil, dig and break up well, and sow the seeds thinly in drills, one foot apart and half an inch deep. If the earth be very dry, give a good soaking of water previous to opening the drills; let this percolate down for a time, until the ground will again work without clogging, and, after sowing, water over again lightly; this will settle all close, and enable the seeds to vegetate freely and quick. In the course of five or six weeks, the plants will be large enough to transplant in their final places. If the soil is not very fertile previously, dress over a plot as large as may be required with barnyard manure - say two barrow loads to each square perch- - or decayed vegetable matter in the same proportions, to which may be added one pound of guano; dig or plough all in, and plant two feet apart, putting each plant down to the crown, so as to secure a better hold in the soil and prevent the winds from tearing them out when they become large. Many persons practise earthing up the stems, but our own experience speaks to the avoiding this; for, if the summer should happen to be moist and warm, they are very subject to rot from extreme succulence in the stalk.

This need not prevent the stirring of the soil, and a thorough loosening with the hoe or spade will always prove very beneficial during active growth. This stock will begin to head about the first week in October, and continue on in succession until the frosts are expected to set in severely, when the remainder of the plants may be carefully lifted and buried up to the collar in soil in a cellar, a grapery, or, where there is no such convenience, they may be put in a trench in the garden, and covered over with leaves and boards so as to keep out the frost. In any of these positions, they will continue to head until February, and may be cut as wanted.