This section is from "The Horticulturist, And Journal Of Rural Art And Rural Taste", by P. Barry, A. J. Downing, J. Jay Smith, Peter B. Mead, F. W. Woodward, Henry T. Williams. Also available from Amazon: Horticulturist and Journal of Rural Art and Rural Taste.
Another point in planting should be well considered, viz.: get your plants into the ground as soon as possible after their receipt. Cover them with soil, even if but for a temporary day or week; keep their roots away from the air, the sunshine, the dry cold winds. Nothing injures them so quick and so severely like exposure; and if the planting season is a dry one, watering should not be withheld. Sagacious nurserymen who succeed best in transplanting, puddle the roots, rather than water in the open field. Soon after the shrubs are received, a large hole, say six feet in diameter and two feet deep, is made, filled with water, and a rich mud of thick cream consistence is formed; into this are plunged the roots of the shrubs until they are coated over with the muddy slime, so tenacious as to stick closely to all parts. They are then transplanted directly to their growing place, and experience seems to demonstrate it is the only successful way of enabling them to withstand a dry season. While planting, fill in about the roots an abundance of fine rich earth, pack it close and firm, and tread the surface with the foot. A slight mulching is often advisable, with such material as straw or grass, and we have found this particularly necessary with the hemlock spruce.
In transplanting a lot just before winter, part were mulched, part not. The former lived soundly through a severe winter, the latter perished. A good snowbank around an evergreen is the very best protection it can have.