Cut a thick piece from the center of a fine white-fleshed fish, wash it quickly in cold water, wipe it carefully and dust it with salt. Wrap it in a piece of cheesecloth, put it in a kettle of boiling water, add a slice of onion, a bay leaf and a half teaspoonful of salt. Cover and push the saucepan to the back of the stove, to simmer, for fifteen minutes. Lift the cheesecloth, drain, turn the fish on a small serving platter and garnish it with crisp parsley and a quarter of a lemon. Serve with cream sauce, sauce Hollandaise, or just a little melted butter and lemon juice.

Broiled Fish

Purchase a center steak from any white-fleshed fish, cut off enough for one feeding and give the rest to the family; fish must not be used the second day. Wash it quickly, wipe it dry, put it in a wire broiler and over a clear fire until slightly browned on one side, turn and brown the other; then hold it at least six inches above the fire; turn it once or twice, broiling it in all ten minutes. Transfer it to a heated platter, spread over with a little butter, put over a few drops of lemon juice and serve at once.