Stock 81/2 inches long, 41/4 inches wide, and $ inch thick. Work the piece to 4 inches wide and as thick

Fig. 107. Rabbeted Corner.

and long as it will work. Be careful to have it out of wind and the ends correct. In planing the ends observe the directions given in Lesson 29 (Bench-Hook).

Draw the lines for cutting the rabbet, following the same method as in lining for the gain at the end of the halved corner (Lesson 16 (Halved Corner)). The working of the rabbet also follows the same methods as working the halved corner.

Cut the piece in two and finish the ends, making the model 4 inches long on the outside when completed. Sandpaper the pieces, except at the joints, ready for shellacing before putting together. Start the nails as directed in Lesson 7 (Bench-Hook). Place the rabbeted piece in the vise and nail the other piece in place, as shown in Fig. 108. For nailing use five 11/2-inch wire brads. Set the brads about 1/32 of an inch below the surface, using a nailset or the head of a brad (Figs. 27 and 28). Smooth the joint if required, and fill the nail holes with putty colored to match the wood. Use the putty quite hard and force it well down upon the heads of the brads. After the putty has become

Fig. 108. Nailing a Rabbeted Corner.

hard, smooth it off with sandpaper and finish the joint with two coats of shellac.

This joint is used to a very great extent for the front end of cheap drawer sides and for small boxes. When used on a box the corner is of ten rounded back to the joint, and it will then finish quite neatly in shellac or varnish.