Elementary Woodwork | by Frank Henry Selden
The object of this work is to place before pupils who are beginning woodwork such information as will lead to a correct use of the tools and lay a good foundation for advanced work without lessening in any way the other benefits of school shop work. It is designed for elementary rather than technical instruction, and therefore many problems and suggestions found in other works have been omitted. Great care, however, has been taken to arrange and illustrate the exercises employed so that pupils will avoid the common error of using tools improperly in the first years of work, and thus escape fixing habits which later will cause much trouble. We are certain there is no need of using tools improperly in the first years of shop work.
| Title | Elementary Woodwork |
| Author | Frank Henry Selden |
| Publisher | Rand, Mcnally & Co., Publishers |
| Year | 1906 |
| Copyright | 1906, by Rand, McNally & Co. |
| Amazon | Elementary Woodwork for Use in Manual Training Classes |
Elementary Woodwork
For Use In Manual Training Classes
By Frank Henry Selden
Author of "Elementary Turning" and "Elementary Cabinetwork"
Fully Illustrated
Chicago - New York Rand, Mcnally & Co., Publishers
Copyright. 1906, by Rand, McNally & Co.
Class in Woodwork, University of Chicago.
Preface- The object of this work is to place before pupils who are beginning woodwork such information as will lead to a correct use of the tools and lay a good foundation for advanced work without lessening i...
- Introduction
- These lessons take up the common tools in the order which the author has found to be best. They are so graded that the pupil should be able to execute each exercise in a satisfactory manner. The chief...
- The Illustrations
- In all the work illustrated in this book the positions should be natural and easy. Do not try to follow any particular rule or to copy any person's position. Fig. 1 and the illus-trations which follow...
- Lesson I. To True The First Surface Of A Piece Of Wood
- Material - A piece of pine 13/8 inches thick, 13/8 inches wide, and 121/2 inches long. Examine the piece thoroughly for broken corners, checks, knots, and other defects. Select for this lesson the ...
- Lesson II. To Plane An Edge At Right Angles To A Surface
- The first edge, or second surface, is examined in but two ways: for straightness, as in Fig. 2, and to see whether it is at right angles to the first surface, as in Fig. 12. In using the try-square pr...
- Lesson III. Use Of The Gauge
- See that the spur is sharpened to a knife-like point, so that it will make a smooth line. Set the gauge by holding it in the left hand, the thumb under Fig. IS. First Piece or Rule. the ...
- Lesson IV Finishing the Third Side
- Take the piece used in Lesson 3 (Use Of The Gauge) and plane the third side or second edge, planing down to the 11/2 inch gauge line, making the piece 11/2 inches wide. It will be noticed that when yo...
- Lesson V. Finishing The Fourth Side
- Gauge the piece to 11/4 inches thick on each edge and plane down to these lines. Use the blade of the try-square as in Fig. 3 to see if the surface is straight from edge to edge or from line to line. ...
- Lesson VI. Laying Off Spaces And Lining
- Place the rule on the surface to be measured and, with the knife in the right hand and the back of the blade against the rule, as shown in Fig. 18, make a mark at the desired distance with the extreme...
- Lesson VII. Bench-Hook
- Select a piece of stock of poor quality (sap or small knots) 7/8 of an inch thick, 4 inches wide, and 12 inches long. Dress it with the plane on all four sides, planing it out of wind, the edges squar...
- Lesson VIII Shelf Border
- The stock for this exercise should be of good quality straight-grained pine. It should be 171/2 inches long, 31/4 inches wide, and 9/16 inch thick. Dress up the best side and best edge, as in Lessons ...
- Lesson IX. Boring
- Select the 7/16 inch bit and put it in place in the bit brace. Place the shelf border in the vise and make an X on every second line where the lines cross the line which is 1/2 inch from the back edge...
- Lesson X Sawing
- Place the shelf border on the bench-hook and take the po sition for sawing shown in Fig. 37. In starting the cut, guide the saw by holding the side of the finger or thumb-nail against the side of the ...
- Lesson XI Chiseling
- Lay the piece for the shelf border on the cutting board and grasp the 7/8 inch chisel as shown in Fig. 39. Remove a very little of the corner at a time, and move the chisel forward and downward at the...
- Lesson XII Making The Corner Shelf
- Fig 41. Corner Shelf. The border completed in Lesson 11 (Chiseling) is intended for a corner shelf. The shelf should be similar in shape to the one shown in Fig. 41. If the bo...
- Lesson XIII. Chiseling Ends
- Take the piece you lined like a scale or rule in Lesson 6 (Laying Off Spaces And Lining) and draw a line on all four sides at the end of the scale. This line is drawn by placing the point of the knife...
- Lesson XIV Sandpapering
- Take a sheet of No. flint paper, or sandpaper, as it is commonly called, and lay it, paper side up, on the bench. Place the backsaw across it so that the teeth of the saw will be at the center ...
- Lesson XV Shellacing
- See that you have not forgotten to write your name and date on the piece. Wipe the dust from the piece and drive a small nail or brad into one end by which to hold it. See that the shellac is not t...
- Lesson XVI. Halved Corner
- The stock for this exercise should be of pine or other soft wood. It should be 121/2 inches long, 13/4 inches wide, and 13/8 inches thick. Dress up the piece on all four sides in the same manner, and ...
- Lesson XVII Finishing The Halved Corner
- After the glue has properly set, which will require several hours, remove the clamp. Take off any surplus glue with a chisel, being careful not to roughen the surface of the wood. The pieces should be...
- Lesson XVIII. Making A Halved Tee
- The stock for this exercise should be the same as for the halved corner (Lesson 16 (Halved Corner)). Reduce the piece to the exact width and thickness. Leave the ends rough. Lay off the halved end ...
- Lesson XIX Halved Cross
- Stock 13/8 inches thick, 13/4 inches wide, 81/2 inches long, of pine or basswood. This piece should be worked to exactly 11/2 inches by 11/4 inches. As each half is to fit into a gain, it is very e...
- Lesson XX Halved Dovetail
- Stock and finished sizes for this piece are the same as for the halved cross (Lesson 19 (Halved Cross)). Set the gauge and draw the gauge lines the same as in making the halved tee (Lesson 18 (Maki...
- Lesson XXI Slip Mortise And Tenon
- Stock and finished sizes are the same as for the halved cross (Lesson 19 (Halved Cross)). Lay off and work each end as indicated by the drawing (Fig.70)before cutting the piece in two. First set th...
- Lesson XXII Through Mortise And Tenon
- The stock and finished sizes are the same as for the halved cross (Lesson 19 (Halved Cross)). Fig. 80. Through Mortise and Tenon. This joint is made in a manner similar to the sl...
- Lesson XXIII. Frame Mortise And Tenon
- The stock and finished sizes are the same as for the halved cross (Lesson 19 (Halved Cross)). Fig. 81. Frame Mortise and Tenon. Lay out and work the frame mortise and ten...
- Lesson XXIV Blind Mortise And Tenon
- The stock and finished sizes for this exercise are the same as for the halved cross (Lesson 19 (Halved Cross)). Fig. 85. Blind Mortise and Tenon. The blind mortise and tenon is w...
- Lesson XXV Single Dovetail
- The stock and finished sizes are the same as for the halved cross (Lesson 19 (Halved Cross)). Line out the end for the pin with the try-square, knife, and gauge. Work it to exact size, being carefu...
- Lesson XXVI Common Dovetail
- Stock 121/2 inches long, 41/4 inches wide, and 7/8 inch thick. Dress to 4 inches wide and 13/16 inch thick. Fig. 89. Common Dovetail. Square the ends carefully, testing them both...
- Lesson XXVII Half Blind Dovetail
- Stock and finished sizes the same as in Lesson 26 (Common Dovetail). Lay out and work the pins the same as in Lesson 26 (Common Dovetail), Fig. 90, except that the narrow edges of the pins do not e...
- Part II. Supplementary Exercises
- The following exercises are not usually given to the whole class. Some pupils who are especially quick will require some work in addition to that given to the remainder of the class. Others will have ...
- Lesson XXVIII. Getting Out Stock
- Where there are no power saws it will be necessary to get out stock by hand. This will require two sawhorses, a handsaw and a ripsaw. The handsaw should be about 26 inches long and have about 8 points...
- Lesson XXIX Bench-Hook
- Stock - One piece 141/2 inches long, 41/2 inches wide, and 7/8 inch thick; two pieces each 121/2 inches long, 2\ inches wide, and £ inch thick. Dress the wide piece to 4 inches and as thick as it w...
- Lesson XXX. Rabbeted Joint
- Stock 81/2 inches long, 41/4 inches wide, and $ inch thick. Work the piece to 4 inches wide and as thick Fig. 107. Rabbeted Corner. and long as it will work. Be careful to have i...
- Lesson XXXI Gained And Rabbeted Corner
- The stock and finished sizes are the same for this lesson as for Lesson 30 (Rabbeted Joint). The rabbeted end is worked similar to the one in Lesson 30 (Rabbeted Joint). The gain is worked similar ...
- Lesson XXXII Bridle Joint
- Fig. 110. Bridle Joint. The stock for this joint is the same, and worked the same, as the through mortise and tenon, except that the opposite parts are cut away. Gauge the same as the...
- Lesson XXXIII Haunched Mortise And Tenon
- The stock for this exercise and the finished sizes are the same as used in Lesson 19 (Halved Cross). This exercise illustrates a variety of modifications of the common mortise and tenon, and, when ...
- Lesson XXXIV Dowel Joint
- The stock for this exercise is the same size, and worked to the same size, as that used in Lesson 19 (Halved Cross). It is often better to connect two pieces with dowels instead of with mortises an...
- Lesson XXXV. Special Dovetail Joint Stock
- One piece 8 inches long, 41/4 inches wide, and 7/8 inch thick; one piece 8 inches long, 41/4 inches wide,and 1/2 inch thick. These pieces 41/4are dressed to 4 inches wide and as thick as they will ...
- Lesson XXXVI Miter Joint
- The stock for this piece and the finished sizes are the same as for the halved corner (Lesson 16 (Halved Corner)). This form of joint, though often used, is too difficult for elementary work except...
- Lesson XXXVII Slip Mortise And Miter
- The stock for this joint and the finished sizes are the same as for Lesson 19 (Halved Cross). Fig. 119. Slip Mortise and Miter. This joint is simply a combination of the joints shown in ...
- Lesson XXXVIII Glue Joint
- It is often necessary to glue together narrow strips or boards to make one wide piece. This is not a very difficult operation if one has learned to control the plane properly. The first step is to sel...
- Lesson XXXIX Making An Octagon
- This exercise may be made from any defective piece of regular stock that will dress to at least 1 inch square and 1 foot long. The piece should be exactly square and the ends exactly alike. Draw li...
- Lesson Xl. Making A Cylinder
- Make an octagon as directed in Lesson 39 (Making An Octagon). Be certain to have every side and angle correct. Any variation in the octagon is quite likely to show in the cylinder. Gauging the piece w...
- Lesson XLI Making A Pointer
- Dress the two adjoining faces of a piece about 3 feet long and about 3/4 of an inch square. Dress the third side, making the piece 3/4 of an inch thick at the large end, and 3/8 of an inch thick at th...
- Lesson XLII. Making A Hexagon
- Dress a piece to 1 inch by 11/6 inches wide. Draw lines at the centers of the 1-inch sides. Divide the other two sides into four parts and draw lines parallel with the edges, omitting the center lines...
- Part III Introduction
- It is not the intention of the author to give in this part a catalogue of tools, but rather to illustrate and describe such few tools as may be required in these exercises. The information given is th...
- Apron
- Boy's Apron For bench aprons for boys, get, according to the height of the boy, from 11/4 to 11/2 yards of blue and white plaid shirting or jumper cloth, or, if plain color is preferred, blue or br...
- Bench
- The woodworker should take pride in keeping his bench in order. The bench-board or bench-hook should be used to avoid injuring the bench. Never should the knife or any other tool be stuck in the bench...
- Bench Stop
- There are many styles of bench stops from the simple square wooden pins to the adjustable and reversible iron stops. One style of iron stop is shown in Fig. 128. Do not think because the stop is made ...
- Bits
- Of the several kinds of bits the auger bit shown in Fig. 129 is best adapted for general use. These bits are usually had in sets of thirteen, varying by sixteenths in size from one-fourth inch to one ...
- Bit-Brace
- The bit-brace, which is used to hold the auger bits, screw driver bits, countersinks, etc., consists of a chuck Fig. 136, a knob, and a handle, or sweep. The chuck is made to grasp the square shank of...
- Brushes
- For use in shellac and in the common paint stains a flat brush one inch wide, costing from five to fifteen cents, will be sufficient (Fig. 138). Small round brushes having stiff bristles may be used i...
- Chisels
- The common firmer chisel (Fig. 140), the bevel-backed firmer chisel (Fig. 141), and the heavy firmer chisel (Fig. 142) represent the general types of hand chisels suitable for elementary woodwork. Whe...
- Clamps
- Probably the old-fashioned wooden hand screws shown in Fig. 145 will never be entirely displaced. For most work they are better than any other style. Care must be taken to keep the jaws quite or nearl...
- Compasses
- Fig. 148 illustrates the common compasses used by woodworkers. Fig. 99 shows a method of setting them, and Fig. 100 shows how to hold them in striking a circle. The ordinary difficulty in using compas...
- Files
- Two files may be required by the beginner, an eight inch flat mill file and a three inch three cornered taper saw file. The mill file (Fig. 149) will be used in sharpening compasses, the gauge spur...
- Gauge
- In selecting a gauge the inexperienced are apt to select the more expensive styles, thinking they will be able to do better work with the higher priced tool. Taking every condition into account, the p...
- Glue
- For elementary work use nothing but the best grade of prepared cold glue. Do not use it from a large dish or from the can in which it is sold. It may be used from a small bottle having a wide opening ...
- Grindstone
- After edge tools have been whetted several times the cutting edge becomes so blunt that it is necessary to remove a considerable portion of the end in order to maintain the proper cutting angle. This ...
- Hammer
- Fig. 157 illustrates a carpenter's plain faced hammer. Fig. 158 illustrates a carpenter's bell faced hammer. The plain faced hammers are used on ordinary work and are better for the use of beginners. ...
- Knife
- Do not try to economize by using a poor knife. Only one that may be kept in first class condition should be tolerated. The knife should have two blades - one at each end. The smaller blade is to be us...
- Lumber
- The materials for these exercises may be of any easily worked soft wood. Probably white pine is the best. Basswood and whitewood or yellow poplar are also suitable. Black walnut and mahogany are good ...
- Nails And Brads
- Very little need be said about brads and nails. They are made in such a great variety that it is scarcely possible to have use for any form or size which is not for sale by some dealer. Each dealer wi...
- Nail Sets
- There are several varieties of nail sets, of which the cup set and spur set are most common. The cup set (Fig. 163 A) has a cup-like cavity at the lower end to set over the head of the nail or brad. T...
- Oil Can
- One is apt in selecting an oil can to think that the more expensive sorts are the best. This is not always the case. For use on the bench, when oil is used only for oilstones, a very small and light c...
- Oilstone
- There are many kinds of oilstones. Some are pieces cut from natural rock and some are made by pressing a powdered abrasive into a rectangular block. Most stones used for sharpening edge tools are used...
- Pencil
- A common pencil, such as is used in writing, is sufficient for ordinary work. If there is much lining to be done on large or rough stock, a carpenter's pencil which has a wide flat lead should be used...
- Planes
- Although there are many sorts and sizes of planes, yet for most work two or three planes are sufficient. For the exercises in this book two planes are all that are necessary. If we do the work with on...
- Adjusting The Planes
- There are various ways of adjusting iron planes. To make the plane cut a thicker or thinner shaving the milled thumb-screw A (Fig. 169) is turned. The proper way to turn it must be learned by experime...
- Sharpening Planes
- Your planes should be sharp and ready for use when you get them and you should become quite familiar with these tools and be able to set them nicely before attempting to sharpen them in any manner. Th...
- Putty
- Good putty consists of whiting and linseed oil. By using white lead with common putty it will adhere better and become harder. Common white putty may be colored with ordinary colors to match the paint...
- Rule
- Probably no part of the shop equipment is so often improperly selected as the pocket rules. These should be selected for accuracy, convenience, and to familiarize oneself with the rule which he is lik...
- Sandpaper
- Sandpaper is the name commonly applied to a tough paper coated with ground flint. Glue is used to hold the flint to the surface of the paper. There is considerable difference in the cutting and wearin...
- Saws
- The saws used in elementary wood work are the hand saw, the rip saw, Figs. 178 and 179, and the back saw, Fig. 180. For special work we sometimes require the compass saw, Fig. 181. The proper methods ...
- Saw Set
- The saw set, shown in Fig.1 184; is for setting the teeth of saws so they will work more easily. This is not a very difficult tool to use except that it requires considerable experience to determine h...
- Scraper
- For cleaning off thick bits of finish and for smoothing cross grained pieces a scraper is required. One may be made from a piece of an old of broken saw blade. Various sizes and shapes may be purchas...
- Screw Driver
- Perhaps the most abused of all tools is the screw driver. There are many forms both for bit stock and for hand use. Those for the bit stock, Fig. 193, should be of good quality and well sharpened. In ...
- Shellac And Alcohol
- Use only the best white shellac in grain alcohol. Get this already for use if you can and avoid the trouble of fixing it. Be careful to get only that which is fresh, and which is made of good material...
- Stains, Paint, Etc
- The exercises may be stained or varnished or finished in shellac. There are many sorts of prepared stains which give a very serviceable finish. These may be had, with directions for use, of all dealer...
- Strop
- Do not depend upon the oilstone to give a perfect edge to either the chisels or the plane bits. It is nearly always best to finish sharpening the edge tools on a leather strop. Do not use the strop to...
- Steel Square
- The carpenter's steel square (Fig. 197) is required by the young woodworker when cutting up stock, setting the tee bevel and for testing large pieces of work. The blades may also be used as straight e...
- Try-Square
- There are several forms of try-squares, some of which are shown in Figs. 198, 199, and 200. The method of using try-squares is shown in Figs. 4, 12, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 32, 33, 36, 42, 55, 56, 57, 59,...
- Tee Bevel
- Fig. 203 illustrates the common tee bevel. In this style the blade is held in position by the thumb screw at the end of the handle. The screw on which the blade slides sometimes requires adjusting in ...
- Varnish
- There are a great many varieties and grades of varnish. Each has its particular use. Those which give the better grades of finish require in their use considerable skill and experience. We cannot advi...
- Vise
- The vise should not be used to avoid the proper handling of the edge tools and the saws. Seldom, if ever, should any piece be held in the vise while using either a hand saw or a back saw. A good mecha...
- Wax
- There are many varieties and grades of prepared wax on sale by dealers. Some of these possess considerable merit. Common beeswax made soft by adding a small quantity of turpentine is quite equal to an...
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