The stock and finished sizes are the same as for the halved cross (Lesson 19 (Halved Cross)).

Fig. 81. Frame Mortise and Tenon.

Lay out and work the frame mortise and tenon the same as the through mortise and tenon, except that the mortise is smaller and near one end, and the tenon, after being worked to the full width of the piece, is gauged to 1 inch wide and worked to that size. Finish both mortise and tenon before cutting the piece in two. After the piece is together it is to be wedged by inserting a wedge in the end of the tenon near the outside edge.

To make the wedge, select a bit of straight-grained pine about 1 inch long, and split a piece from it about \ inch wide and \ of an inch thick, as shown in Fig. 82. Lay this piece on the bench-hook with one end against the vertical side and taper it as shown in Fig. 83. Turn the piece over and taper the other side in the same manner, giving the wedge a sharp wide end. Split the end of the tenon with a chisel, as shown in Fig. 84, and insert the wedge. Drive the wedge until the joint is tight, being careful not to drive the wedge in far

Fig 82. Splitting Material for a Wedge.

enough to split the end of the piece. After a little experimenting you will learn that a chisel is by far

the best tool to use for making wedges of this kind. Some times for larger joints the wedges are not sharpened to so thin an edge and, instead of splitting the tenon with the chisel, a saw kerf is made in it before it is put into the mortise. Wedges are not used as much now as formerly because glue and nails are so cheap and often far better to use than the wedges.

Finish this piece by planing the end of the tenon and also the end of the mortised piece which is at

Fig. 84. Splitting a Tenon.

Fig. 88. Making a Wedge.

the corner. Saw the outer ends, as directed in Lesson 20 (Halved Dovetail). Do not plane or sandpaper the ends or sides.