Material - A piece of pine 13/8 inches thick, 13/8 inches wide, and 121/2 inches long.

Examine the piece thoroughly for broken corners, checks, knots, and other defects. Select for this lesson the best surface. Examine very carefully the surface to be worked; first, by sighting with the eye from end to end to determine if it is straight (Fig. 2); second, by applying the try-square blade as shown in Fig. 3 to determine if it is straight across from edge to edge. Next, with both hands hold the piece between you and the side light, and sight across the piece from edge to edge, tilting it to such an angle as will make the line of sight pass just over the front edge to the back edge as shown in Fig. 4. If the piece is out of wind both back corners of the surface will show equally. If the piece is in wind one back corner will show more than the other back corner arid the high back corner may be planed down. Although we should always look for a high back corner, we may take the piece out of wind by planing the alternate front corner. It is usual to plane an equal amount from each of these corners or more from the one which is thicker. Place the piece on the bench as shown in Fig. 1. Do not put the piece in the vise.

Fig. 4. Looking for Wind or Twist.

Remember to repeat the three tests after every few strokes of the plane, so that when the piece is out of wind it will be straight from end to end, and also from edge to edge. A straight edge may be used for testing the straightness of the surface. (See Fig. 5.]

An excellent method for aiding the eyes in testing is to plane up three pieces as nearly perfect as possible and after testing them with the eyes and try-square, try them together. First test number one with number two, then number one with number

Fig. 5. Using a Straight Edge. Learn to examine the edge as shown in Fig. 2. The straight edge should be used only to see whether the first test has been successful.

three, and then number two with number three. Continue to plane and test them in this manner until each one will fit the other two. This exercise will well repay the time. The three pieces required for the bench-hook (Lesson 7 (Bench-Hook)) may be dressed up at once and compared in this manner.

If in planing the surface does not work perfectly smooth, make a careful examination of the plane.

When the plane is in proper order it will make a shaving nearly the full width of the bit. The shaving should be thickest at the center, and curve slightly to the edges. If you are not strong enough to cut a wide shaving, the bit may be ground so rounding that it will cut only a very narrow shaving. If the plane is cutting too thick or too thin a shaving, turn the brass milled thumb-nut, which is under the plane iron, until the proper thickness of cut is obtained. As the plane cuts deepest at the center of the cutting edge, the plane should be held parallel with the sides of the piece and with the center of the bit over the place requiring the heaviest cut. (See Fig. 6.) Lift or tilt the plane on the return stroke so that the bit will not touch the wood. (Figs. 7, 8,9.) Hold the plane firmly, but do not attempt to make it cut by using an extreme amount of pressure. Bear down on the toe, or front end, of the plane in starting (Fig. 1), and on the opposite end, or heel, in finishing the stroke (Fig. 10). In case a shaving is to be taken off only a part of the length of the piece, raise the heel of the plane gradually while it

Fig. 6. Jointing an Edge. The plane may be moved along either side or along the center.

is moving forward, or in case the shaving is to commence part way of the length, lower the heel to the cut while the plane is moving forward. Do not be satisfied until you have a surf ace not only straight and out of wind, but also entirely free from any roughness caused by the plane. You will probably discover that it is quite difficult to plane the piece so that it will be straight and square to the extreme ends. The reason for this is that you do not bear down enough on the toe of the plane and lift enough on the heel of the plane as you start the stroke; and in finishing the stroke you do not bear down enough on the heel and lift enough on the toe of the plane. The gradual changing from bearing on one end of the plane to bearing on the other end of the plane is the one very important point which you must learn if you are to do good work.

Fig. 7. Tilting the Plane. This is to avoid dulling the cutting edge on the return stroke.

Fig. 8 Lifting the Plane. This is to avoid dulling the plane on the return stroke.

You will soon discover that some pieces of wood plane more smoothly in one direction than in the other. Always plane in the direction that will produce the smoothest surface. This is called planing with the grain. In some pieces the grain runs in both or many directions, and it is impossible to plane them entirely smooth.

Fig. 9. Swinging the Plane to one Side. This keeps the bit from touching the material on the return stroke.

Such pieces are sometimes finished with a scraper.

In getting the surface to the proper shape use as little of the material as you possibly can. This not only will save much time and material, but is also the mark of a skilled workman.

When the first surface is finished, make a pencil mark on it about 1 inch long. This mark should be near the center of the piece, from end to end, and at nearly right angles to the edge, and should extend to the edge which is to be planed

Fig. 10. Position in Finishing the Stroke.

next (Fig. 11). This is called a face-mark, and not only indicates that the surface has been properly shaped, but also that measurements and lines are to be made from this side.

This piece should always be held by placing the end against the bench stop. If there is a tail vise do not use it, for you will be more certain to use the plane properly if the piece is not held rigidly; and when the plane is properly used the piece will not move from its place in front of the stop, and there will be no need of using the vise.

Fig. 11. Face - Marks. Unless the piece is to be cut in two but one set of face-marks is used. When there is but one set they are placed near the center.