In arranging a workshop, the position of the work-bench with regard to the light is of prime importance. For carpentry and general joinery, the light should be at the head of the bench, so that it can pass under the try-square, and to avoid awkward positions in testing work. The turner and carver should have the light come down on the top of their work, from a sky-light, or have the lathe or bench in front of a tall window, the lower part of which is screened by tool-racks.

Although some workmen are obliged to keep their tools in chests for convenience in moving, or in drawers under the bench, the better plan is to have them in a closet within easy reach, above the bench or against the wall opposite the bench. The closet should have the doors and sides furnished with strips of wood notched to hold the various tools, nearly all of which may be supported on such racks. Each tool thus has its own peg or place, in which it is kept when not in use. Even in a chest or in drawers the saws, chisels, gouges, bits, and other edge tools, are separated by notched strips to prevent injury to their edges.

The work-bench itself, made of hard wood, preferably maple, requires some care to preserve a smooth and clean top. The saws, chisels, boring-tools, nails, screws, or other sharp tools, must never cut into the bench. The vise should be brought square to its work, and no irregular or metallic objects should be fastened in it. Frequently brush the top of the bench and clean off drops of glue, paint, or varnish, immediately. Make no pencil-marks on the top, as they soil the work.

Have on the bench only those tools to be used in the work at hand; all others must be put away.

The tools should be used only for the purpose for which they are intended; measures and marking-tools not to be used as levers, the try-square not as a hammer or screw-driver, nor the compasses as a boring-tool.

The polished surfaces of steel tools should be carefully protected from moisture and especially from perspiration. To prevent rust, rub the bright parts frequently with a mixture of paraffine and vaseline, or equal parts of beeswax and tallow. If rust should appear, brighten the spot with some fine emery-cloth and oil, rubbing always in the direction of the polish scratches.

In working up old material, the greatest caution must be taken to prevent sawing and planing on nails, etc.

In mortising, do not strike the chisel with the hammer, and on no occasion strike the hammer on its side. Planes must have their soles frequently rubbed with the wax or paraffine mixture; always lay them on their side or on thin strips on the bench.

The student should wear a long apron, without pockets, and made of strong material. Workmen use short aprons, and while building or in out-of-door work have the bottom turned up and sewed, to make a large pocket for nails and small tools.

The work must be carefully protected from bruises by dropping, striking with hammer or other tools, and from chips on the bench.

In all this training three things are to be aimed at: First, accuracy, which in wood-working specially applies to marking and cutting; second, finish, or smoothness; and, third, quickness of execution.

After marking out the work, it should be inspected and approved by the instructor before cuts are made. Pencil-marks must always be light and fine, so as to be easily removed.

When an exercise is finished, the work should have the name or number of the student and the date written on it, the bench brushed off, and all tools cleaned and put away.