Fig. 24. - Sketch fob a Drawer Case.

After the glue has set, the partitions should be planed square and fair, and all but the bottom one notched, as at d, to receive the casings (e). The front rail of the bottom partition should be made narrow to allow the base to be glued upon it, as at f, the joint being strengthened by glue blocks (g) if desired. The standards and partitions may now be nailed together, the casings (e) and the base (/) being glued and nailed with finish nails, unless a very good piece of work is being done, when the pieces should be glued only. If nails are used, it will not be necessary to leave hand screws upon the work until the glue sets. The joint at j, between the casing and base, should be mortised, tongued and grooved, or doweled. One casing may be left loose if desired, as it will be easier to fit the case into the space which is to receive it, though if one end of the case is finished, the casings should be fastened permanently.

Be sure that a case of this sort is set up square, as it will save much trouble in fitting the drawers, the construction of which is indicated by sections h, h and k, k. The top of the case should be glued up, if one board of suitable width cannot be found, and may be either fastened on or left loose, as may seem wise considering the setting up of the case.

After the drawer is fitted and the front planed, leave it with the front flush with the face of the case, and mark with a pencil beside the drawer sides on the partitions; remove the drawer and nail the runs (l, l) in their places. It is obvious that any slight inaccuracy in the squaring of the drawer will make no difference in its running. After the runs are in place, the drawer should be stopped 1/8" or less back of the face of the case by nailing a piece back of the drawer to prevent its being pushed in too far.

The dimensions of the case shown are purposely omitted, as each piece of work will have its own length if the case is to be fitted in; but cases in general range between 2" 6" and 3' 0" in height, and 16" and 24" in depth.

In fitting a drawer, many workmen make the mistake of running it too loosely; it should run as closely as possible against the guides. The less that can be planed from the bottom edges of the drawer sides the better, as any taken off there weakens the support of the drawer bottom; if the sides are too wide, they should be made narrower by planing off the top edge.

Be sure that the bottom of the drawer front does not drag on the partition, also that the ends of the front clear the space in which it runs, for if the outside of the face of the drawer front rubs against the case, it may splinter. Care should be used to leave an open joint; the least possible difference between the ends of the opening and the drawer front is sufficient.

The use of a wax candle, paraffin wax, bayberry tallow, or even a piece of soap, upon the drawer and guides where there is apt to be friction, is of great help. If a drawer runs hard in damp weather, do not plane off more than is absolutely necessary, as artificial heat will cure almost any drawer which ever fitted, if it is made of seasoned stock.

23. A kitchen sink should be set with a pitch toward the drain to allow the water to run off freely. The drain should be connected with a sewer, or carried to a sufficient distance to insure that there will never be any annoyance from it; this work should be done by a plumber in a sanitary manner. Upon one side of the sink, usually at the left, there should be a dish drainer for conducting the water into the sink as it drains from the dishes; this should be set at an incline of about 1" to 1', as shown in Fig. 25, at a.

There should be no closet under the sink; the place should be left open to allow a free circulation of air.

A splash board (6) should protect the wall from water, back of and above the sink.

24. The bathroom should be finished with well - seasoned wood, of a kind which is but little affected by dampness, and have either a ceiling or panel work dado, well painted and finished to protect it against water. As the modern open plumbing and the tile or marble bathrooms have supplanted the older fittings which had to be boxed in, there is little opportunity for woodwork in the bathroom of the modern house.

25. Wood mantels, hardware, and other special finish are often furnished by the owner, though a limit to the price may be specified in the contract. Any expense incurred in pleasing the owner's fancy is figured as an extra, though the best plan is to keep the cost of extras as low as possible, since it often causes misunderstanding, unless each matter is settled in writing as it occurs.

Suggestive Exercises

11. Is floor laying always done by house carpenters? What kinds of floors are in most common use? How should a matched floor be nailed? Which is the more expensive floor? Why? Should a floor be nailed at every joist? How should paper be laid under a floor? How should the stock for a natural finish floor be selected? Compare the merits of wide and narrow flooring. Why is the starting of a matched floor an important matter? How is it brought about upon a floor which fits against the baseboard? Under the baseboard? What is the objection to using a quarter round or shoe strip? Will anything be gained by selecting the grain in the boards of a floor which is to be smoothed? How is a square-edged floor laid?

Fig. 25. - A Kitchen Sink.

12. What is meant by inside finish? How should finish be sorted for colors? Why? Is it a good plan to use different woods in the same room? Does this rule apply to doors? What should be the relation of the tops of openings to each other? Is this usually followed? Why? What woods may be used for inside finish? What woods are unsuitable? What quality of material should be used?