This section is from the book "Our Workshop", by Anonymous. Also available from Amazon: Our Workshop.
The tongue on the sash-bar is generally worked by a sash-plane, which is expressly qualified for the purpose; a fillister may, however, be employed in its absence. The moulding now in general favour for sash-bars is called the lamb's-tongue, which, being free from angles and sharp edges, is not disfigured by the paint which clogs and spoils the appearance of more intricate designs.
In joining, it is often necessary to stick a moulding on one side only, the other being left flat, that it may bed fairly against the panels, as in door and shutter work. The same sticking-board may be used; but as there is no tongue to the mouldings employed for door-frames, etc, the work must be fixed to the board by a thin blade of steel, called a bench-knife, which is driven partly into both at the back end. When several mouldings of the same pattern are required, the joiner "sticks" a long piece, which he afterwards cuts into lengths suitable for his work.
Sometimes the edges of work are rounded, or a hollow groove is formed on them in situations where a moulding is not required. The rounded or convex edge could be wrought by a surfacing-plane, but the concave or groove could not be "stuck" without a special tool. Planes called hollows and rounds are therefore used, in which the soles and irons are curved to suit the work.

Fig. 75.
These planes are made in pairs, the round (or convex) exactly fitting into its corresponding hollow (or concave) partner. It must be evident that the hollow will make the edge of the work round, and the round will produce a hollow or groove. A complete set comprises eighteen pairs. A good workman can sometimes make two or three sizes of hollows and rounds do duty for a moulding-plane, or he may use them to correct or otherwise modify a moulding which fails to give satisfaction.
Some of the principal mouldings employed in joinery are shown in fig. 75. No. 1 is simply a rounded end, such as would be made by a hollow plane; No. 2 is called a quirked bead; No. 3, double quirk bead. No. 4 is a double bead and quirk; No. 5 is a double fillet; No. 6 is a torous bead; No. 7 is an ogee; and No. 8 is a reversed ogee; No. 9, hollow and half-round; No. 10 is an ovolo and bead. The mouldings 1 and 3 are used for projecting pieces of wood or for projecting angles; Nos. 2, 4, 5, 6 are used for horizontal joints; Nos. 7, 8, 9 are employed for capping or for bead mouldings.

Fig. 76.
The proper way of holding the moulding and similar planes is shown in fig. 76. The back of the stock is grasped near the top by the right hand, the thumb being towards the workman, and all the fingers on the opposite side of the tool. The front end of the plane is kept well down on the work by the left thumb which is placed on the upper side of the stock. The forefinger, which is bent at the second joint, is pressed against the side of the stock to keep the fence in contact with the work; but the remaining fingers are closed in the palm of the hand. The plane must be lifted off the work at the termination of the strokes, as the iron will lose its keenness if drawn backwards over the work, besides subjecting the sole to useless wear.

Fig:. 77.
The manner of handling the plough is represented in fig. 77. This instrument is perhaps rather difficult to hold, owing to its peculiar construction and overhanging parts. The right hand is applied to the back in a way somewhat similar to that shown in fig. 76, but the fingers are placed on the back stem to help to balance the weight of the fence. The thumb of the left hand is hooked over the forward stem: the fore and remaining fingers are then placed under its projecting end, and are allowed to rest on the fence to assist in keeping it against the work.
Our readers, unless they purpose practising on a scale almost as extensive as that of a professional joiner will not require one-half of the additional planes which we have lately brought under their notice. The amateur will probably be able to execute any groove-work he is likely to attempt by the aid of the plough, which is more generally useful than the fillister, if a choice be made between them. A good plough with eight irons may be purchased for from eighteen to twenty shillings, and a moving fillister for about eight shillings. Skew and square rebate-planes, with irons from three-quarters of an inch to two inches wide, will cost about three shillings each.
If any of the simple grooving-planes, or the hollows and rounds and moulding planes be subsequently required, they may perhaps be procured; but unless the orders with which "Our Workshop" is favoured be very extensive, this additional stock in trade will be unnecessary.
 
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