The slipper box illustrated is really a box with a door in front, the top being padded so as to make a comfortable leg rest or temporary seat. When father or uncle sits down in the evening in the big chair, his slippers are right at hand, and also a comfortable place to put his feet. At first glance this piece of furniture will appear rather hard to make, but when you learn how to go about it, it is quite simple. Perhaps you may have to get a little assistance when it comes to padding the top, but there surely will be no trouble in that. All of the pieces should be one-inch dressed lumber. Choose pieces that have a pretty grain and are free from knots. Start with the two ends. Plane up the edges so that the two boards are exactly the proper width, and then lightly mark off the necessary squares with a sharp pencil, using the steel square to keep the lines parallel. Place the sharp point of the compasses on the black dots shown in the working drawing, and draw the necessary curves. The top curve, however, cannot be drawn with the compasses as it is too large. The center point for this is exactly in the middle of the board at the bottom, and the best way is to drive in a tack at this point and use a string. The different curves must now be joined up with pencil and ruler, and when the outline is satisfactorily completed, the sawing out should begin. Saw very carefully so as not to tear off any splinters, and then take the plane and knife and trim down to line. Test the edges frequently, or you will be sure to trim off more toward one side than toward the other. When the two are finally shaped up, place them together, and sandpaper the edges smooth with a piece of sandpaper wrapped on a block. For the curves, wrap the paper on a round piece of wood.

The top, bottom and back boards are all plain pieces of exactly the same length - all sixteen inches long, The top piece is the same width as the ends, while the bottom is an inch and a half narrower. The width of the back piece is ten and a quarter inches. Before attempting to put together, prepare four square strips, one inch wide and seven inches long. Mark out on the ends exactly where the top and bottom pieces come, and then fasten on these strips to the inside surfaces of the end boards, all as illustrated in the skeleton view. When the strips are securely fastened in place, it is a very simple matter to fasten the top and bottom pieces to them. In all this we may use glue and nails, although a carpenter would probably use screws. Do not fasten any piece in place until you have fitted them all together to make sure that everything is all right. The back is next to be put in position, and should be just wide enough to fit snugly in between the top and bottom pieces without leaving any seams. It is then fastened in place by nailing in through the top and bottom. The front is the same as the back, except that it is just enough smaller all the way round to permit of it being used as a door. This is to be attached with two hinges at the bottom, and if strap hinges of brass or copper can be obtained at some arts-and-crafts store, they should be used, but if not, simply get the best looking hinges you can at the hardware store. A small knob or cupboard catch to match the hinges should also be purchased and placed in the center near the top of the door.

The staining and waxing are now in order, after which the top is to be upholstered. Go to the furniture store and get sufficient upholstering material to tightly pad the top. Pile this on evenly and draw a piece of cotton or canvas over it, tacking it in place after stretching evenly. With the tape, measure the correct size for the final top covering of imitation leather, allowing enough for turning the edges under. This and about three dozen fancy tacks will complete the job. Tack the leather along one edge of the top board first and then along the other, after which fasten the ends. Be sure the tacks are evenly spaced.