THE novice who has never examined a Lathe, but, having seen others using it, thinks he should also like to try his hand at the work, naturally wants to know its construction. He hears of chucks, and mandrels, and poppets, but the terms convey to his mind nothing but mystery. We shall, therefore, at once enlighten him. Beginning at the stand, he will see two cast-iron uprights, supporting between them parallel bars, nicely planed. These are called the standards, and are sometimes, but not very generally, made of wood. The parallel bars are called the bed, sometimes gantry, which appears to be an American coinage, not very expressive, and decidedly ugly. Half-way between the bed and the floor, the crank axle is suspended, generally upon centres or pointed steel screws; but sometimes this axle runs in brasses, called bearings or bushes, and sometimes it rests upon small turned wheels, called friction wheels, which are supposed to give it an easier motion. At the lowest part is hung a treadle for the foot, and this is connected to the crank by an iron hook, or by crank chain passing over a roller in the treadle bar. This gives a smooth rolling motion. Sometimes the crank hook is called the pitman.

The bed of a Lathe is usually made of two bars in a single casting, planed quite flat on the top and edges. It may be of beech, mahogany, or hard wood, but it is now so easy to obtain complete Lathes of iron, and they are so cheap and convenient, that it is not worth while to build them up at home. In some of the small Lathes, there is no crank axle, but the flywheel is hung upon a short bolt or stud, which screws into the left standard. The crank is then merely a pin fixed into one of the spokes of the wheel. Standing on the bed are two poppets, or, as they are also called, headstocks. The one on the left hand is permanently fixed in place by a strong bolt and nut. This headstock carries a small wheel or pulley, the axle of which is the mandrel. The pulley is turned with grooves for the Lathe cord; that of smallest size giving the greatest speed. This is used for wood, and the slower motion is for metal. Soft wood, like deal, needs the quickest speed of all to make it cut clean. The harder woods, and also bone and ivory, are usually turned at a slower rate.

The mandrel is the most important part of the Lathe. It is made generally with the conical neck passing through a hard steel or gun-metal collar in the headstock, while its other end rests on a hard, pointed screw of steel, which is called the tail pin. By means of the latter, any wear of the neck or collar can be taken up by screwing the tail pin so as to push the mandrel neck forward into its collar. This must always be attended to, as the mandrel must turn very easily, but without the least shake. There are oil-holes drilled in the top of the headstock, and lubrication must never be omitted. The best sewing-machine oil should be used, and a few drops of paraffin will make it still more suitable. Never use vegetable oil, like linseed or olive, Lucca or colza, if it can be avoided. Sperm oil is good, either alone or with paraffin, and if only olive or salad oil is obtainable, always add paraffin to it, as it materially improves it. A good lubricant makes a surprising difference in the running of a Lathe. The crank axle screws, and also the crank hook or chain, must also receive due attention in this respect; likewise, now and then, the bearings of the treadle.

PLATE I.-PLAIN FOOT LATHE.

The second Lathe head, or back poppet as it is usually called, is movable along the bed, and can be fixed at any point by the bolt and nut attached to it. The upper part is bored out accurately to carry the cylinder, or smooth, round bar into which the pointed steel centres fit, which are used to support work while it is being turned. This cylinder is advanced and withdrawn by a hand wheel at the back, which carries a screw working into a nut in the cylinder. All this is out of sight in the upper part of the poppet. Between the poppets stands the hand rest, on which the tool is supported. This can be placed where needed, and the upper part, or tee, can be raised or lowered at pleasure, according to the size of the work that it is proposed to turn. This hand rest is often replaced by the slide rest, if metal is to be turned; but a good deal can be done without this addition to the Lathe, which can be added at any time, after wood turning has been thoroughly mastered.

In the illustration (Plate I.), all the parts above described are lettered as follows:-

A, A, Standards.

B, Bed or gantry.

C, Treadle.

D, Crank hook, pitman, or chain gearing.

E, Crank axle.

F, Flywheel.

G, Lathe cord.

H, Fast headstock.

I, Movable headstock or back poppet.

J, Hand rest; and K, its T or tee.

L, Hand wheel to move M, the cylinder.

N, Mandrel, with its pulley, O.

P, Screw for chucks.

Q, Tail pin.

R, R, Treadle centres or bearings.

S, Movable back centre.

T, Bearings or centres of crank axle.

We now come to what are known as chucks. These are contrivances by which the work to be turned is secured to. the Lathe mandrel, and they vary according to the size and nature of the work, such as whether it is long or short, whether to be bored or hollowed out, or solid; and also whether it is of wood, ivory, or metal. Chucks are, therefore, rather numerous, but for general use we may readily make an inexpensive selection. Plate II. gives illustrations of several chucks. Nos. 5 and 6 are main or adapter chucks, into which fit many of the smaller ones, such as No. 1, the fork or prong chuck, for soft wood, used with the back centre to support the work at its other end. No. 2, the cross or blade chuck - a capital one for hard or soft wood. A saw cut is made at the end of the piece, crossed by another at right angles. Into these the blades fall, and the work cannot shift or slip. The back centre is needed as in the last case. No. 3 is the square hole chuck, made to take carpenters' boring bits, or rods of metal squared to fit, and for many similar purposes. This is a very useful chuck. No. 4 is a solid chuck of gun-metal, that can be drilled out to any desired size. No. 7, taper screw, an indispensable chuck, for holding short bits of stuff for boxes and other hollow work. These are also sometimes held by means of No. 8, a plain face plate with holes countersunk at the back. The work is attached by ordinary wood screws. No. 9 is a mandrel for circular saws, emery wheels, buffs, etc. When required for saws, a saw table is needed, which is fitted into the socket of the hand rest, or fastened upon the bed. No. 10, a bell chuck, with clamping screws, for holding short bars of metal. It is less used since the scroll chuck was invented; but is a good contrivance, its only fault being that it is a knuckle-duster. Made with very thick metal, however, the screw heads can be countersunk. Nos. 11 and 12, the amateur's self-centreing scroll chuck, often called American, as it has been chiefly developed and perfected there. It has one or two sets of jaws, which draw together concentrically, by means of the key, and hold drills or work truly and securely. Of late years these chucks have come into very general use. They are of all sizes and prices: the 2in., 24s.; 4in., 34s. They are fitted to a face plate screwing on the mandrel; the smaller ones on a cone.