In designing a gavel, Plates IX and X, and in selecting wood for the same, there are a few requirements we have to meet. Since a gavel is used in somewhat the same manner as a mallet (in that we strike a blow with both), the first essential will be to use a hard wood. This stands the blow better, and hard woods being heavier, the blow is more easily delivered. The wood must be sonorous, so that sound is given forth. During periods of excitement, it is often necessary to use a gavel quickly, and little attention is paid to where the gavel strikes; hence the ends must be well rounded. To meet all these requirements, a wood such as rosewood, ebony, or coco-bolo serves very well.

Plate IX.

Plate X.

The stock for the head is 2 1/4"x21/4"x4 1/2". (a) Rough down to the largest diameter, (b) cut to length, (leaving the same amount of waste wood at each end), (c) locate the center line and (d) lay off the work from both sides of this line. It is advisable, at the point (c).

to make a small hole with the dividers, so that when boring the hole for the handle, it will be in the exact center.

When turning a cove, having a fillet at each side, it is advisable to ignore the cove entirely until the fillets are cut clean, then work out the cove.

Before cutting the work loose, bore the hole for the handle. This should be done in the lathe, the work being clamped tightly between centers, Fig. 37.

The handle should be turned with the small end at the dead center. All parts are finished before fitting the handle into the head, so that no oil from the polish will reach that part. On all work, where one part fits into another, always cut the hole first, then fit the other part to that hole.

When all the ends have been cleaned off, Fig. 38, glue the handle into the head. Should the handle fit rather loosely, make a saw-kerf in the end, about 1/2" down the handle, and force a wedge into this cut. This method is often used in joinery.

Fig. 37. Boring a Gavel Head.

Fig. 38. Sawing oft the Ends.