This section is from the book "Scouting For Rural Boys. A Manual For Leaders", by Boy scouts of America. See also: Outdoor Adventure Manual: Essential Scouting Skills for the Great Outdoors.
The Scout can locate certain fence corners, brush thickets, brush piles, old shocks of corn, which may serve as natural shelters for quail, pheasants and other game birds, varying with the section. To guard them against cats, skunks, minks, etc., nesting places and aerial feeding stations can be set up as illustrated.
Wood, scrap lumber, boxes, slabs, bits of old logs may be used-also tin, old leather, roofing, cocoanut shells, gourds, bark. The shelter should "turn the weather" and the openings should be the size to suit the desired bird tenant. The small opening to a wren's house keeps the sparrows out!
While paint makes the shelter colorful, it may (unless thoroughly dried) drive birds away because of the odor-or even the color, where it does not harmonize with surroundings. The latter should blend protectively with the buildings, fences, tree trunks and leaves of the locality.
Bird houses and feeding devices should not be located in too "public" or dangerous places, from the bird's viewpoint.
These have been so called because they include three parts-a weathervane, a windmill, and some sign or symbol.
Projects are limited in variety only by the ingenuity of the Scouts. They may be placed on various buildings about the farm or village home where they will be valuable for telling wind direction. If good "bearings" are put on the moving parts, they may last a long while, though continuous turning in the wind soon wears them out unless arrangements are made to grease the axle parts.
About the average home or farm there are boxes and scraps of lumber which may be used by the Scout 3-in-l crafter. Tin, galvanized iron, roofing material, plywood, tubs, old buckets and cans may be cut up and used.
The tools the Scout will need for wooden parts are chisels, saw, knife, brace and bit, coping saw and some holding clamp or vise. The "C" clamp shown under Horncraft can be used. For metal work, tin snips, soldering iron and pliers are needed. Some outside paint, white lead base mixed in linseed, tung oil or soy bean oil will protect the surface and give an attractive flexible finish. A local painter can be gotten to give the Scout suggestions on paint mixing and how to apply it with even smooth strokes. All tin, iron and metal should first be painted with a metallic base paint or "sizing." Cement, stone or plaster surfaces must be filled with a "sizing" before final coat.
HORN AND BONE CRAFT
Horns and bones may be gotten from farms, slaughter houses, rendering plants and butcher shops, at little or no cost. The first job is to clean the horn or bone. The necessary tools are shown in the sketch.
The Scout should mark the horn or bone with pencil or chalk, clamp on a table as pictured, then cut or saw as marked and desired.
Smoothing and rounding the edges may be done with sandpaper or files. A piece of broken glass makes an excellent scraper for smoothing the surface, working with the grain of the horn.
Steel wool comes next, finishing off with linseed (or other) oil and a soft cloth to polish. A bit of toothpaste rubbed into the surface of the horn until nearly dry can then be polished with a soft cloth.
May be etched with a sharp tool or nail, the end of a file, or with a burning needle, or red-hot wire, or with an awl.
In addition to the projects illustrated there are others, such as vase for flowers, either one horn or a cluster, set on a wooden base; cut horizontally, a horn may be a small flower box for miniature flowers; ash trays, paper weights, clothing racks, salt and pepper shakers, pen and ink holders, pencil supports, and many other useful products may be made from horn and bone.
Bones and hoofs of horses, sheep and cattle found on the prairies, in forests and on farms may be used in making of many useful things.
Useful as well as artistic signs call for making with a purpose in mind. The basic motive is to help others to "know" where and what. "A Lone Boy Scout lives here" is a friendly sign. A Scout meeting place, a grange, a church, a school, a Scout camp, and direction signs all may call for well-made signs.
The Scout should sketch the design and wording and fit the size to the place where it will go.
A wood background, with a reenforcing frame, plus some paint can be made into a fine sign. Tin, canvas, glass, wire or small chains may be used. To stand weathering the paint should be outside paint with white lead base mixed, preferably, in tung oil or soy bean oil. The Scout should counsel with an expert painter on this.