Angora Wool Or Mohair. Of all animals whose fleece is largely used in the manufacture of fabrics, there is probably none so little known as the Angora goat. And when Mohair dress goods, Mohair plush or Mohair laces are mentioned it is exceedingly unlikely that one dry-goods salesman out of ten can tell whence comes the raw material out of which the goods are manufactured.

These goats derive their name from Angora, a city in Asia Minor, 217 miles southeast of Constantinople. There is no historical mention of them previous to the 10th century, and it was not until 1820 that Mohair became a steady article of import into England. The Angora goat should not be confounded with our common goat, nor with the Cashmere goat, which are quite different species. The fleece of the Angora is soft and silky and the whitest known to the trade, elastic and wiry in character, covering the whole body and the greater part of the legs with close-matted ringlets, which attain a length of 4 to 5 inches. The fleece is composed of two kinds of hair; that next to the skin being short and coarse, the other being curly and lustrous, both however, being totally devoid of felting properties. The goats are sheared in the early spring, and the average yield per goat is about 21/2 pounds. The best quality comes from Constantinople. The care of these goats is the chief industry of Turkish people in the Angora districts. Each farmer possesses not to exceed 20 or 30 to which he gives the greatest care, in many instances living under the same roof with them. They are washed and curried several times a week, for greater the care, the more hair is produced. The fineness of the fleece is due in a large measure to the climate and soil. The amount of wool produced by the Angora district amounts to about 5,250,000 pounds yearly, but of this only about 1,000,000 pounds can be picked out for the finest grade of upholstery and car plushes. In the year 1845, the increasing demand for. and value of Mohair stimulated endeavors to acclimatize the Angora goat in other regions. All European endeavors having failed on account of the extremely damp and uncongenial climate of that conntry, in 1849 Dr. J. P. Davis imported some flocks to America. They are now found in large numbers both in the South and far West, New Mexico, California and Oregon. It is only in high altitudes and dry atmosphere that the flocks will thrive. The annual product of American fleeces averages about 700,000 pounds. The climate and soil of New Mexico is especially favorable for Angora flocks and there they multiply rapidly, the ewes always bearing two and frequently three kids at a litter, twice a year. The American Angoras, however, are not the pure breed, and consequently produce an inferior quality of Mohair. The Turkish government issued an edict many years ago against the exportation of these goats, hence the American raisers are obliged to replenish their flocks with Angoras from other districts in Asia. Whether the United States can produce Mohair of the best quality is yet to be determined, for it is well known that certain localties possess specific qualities for the production of wool or hair of a distinct character. This was shown many years ago, when the rage for bright-haired dress goods was so marked as to suggest that the supply of bright-haired wool was inadequate to the demand. The peculiarities of a district for growing wool or hair of a certain character are hard to explain, but experience has shown that a locality will produce to advantage only one class of wool or hair. This is illustrated by the history of the growth of what are known to the trade as " lustre wools." Of all the wide area on the earth's surface that produces wool, no localities produce wools of pure lustre except cer-tain districts in England, comprising the counties of York, Nottinghan, Lincoln, Leicester and Northumberland. These will produce bright wool and no other. It is not alone in the breed of sheep raised there for if this breed is taken elsewhere from its own pasture ground, the character of the wool deterioates, and after the first year ceases to be sold as lustre wool. On the other hand if any breed of sheep are taken to the favored lustre dis tricts to be wintered and shorn, the fleece possesses almost as much luster as that of the sheep that has been raised there. Numerous attempts to produce luster wool, made in what are regarded as the best districts in the United States for wool growing, have failed to maintain in the sheep those qualities which in its original home produced the finest lustre wool. To use the phrase of the trade, the "breed grows out," and the sheep soon become identical, as regards the fleece, with all others that have been reared in the locality. What is true of one animal fiber is true of others, and while there is no doubt that the Angora goat will live and thrive in the United States, the question to be decided by experience is, whether it will in any other than its native place produce its characteristically beautiful, silky, lustrous fleece.

Mohair, as the hair or wool of the Angora goat is called, is a brilliant, clastic, tough, wiry fibre of enormous durability, and, owing to its elasticity, is well adapted for pile fabrics, such as plush, carriage and lap robes, or in braids, bindings, shoelaces and other purposes, the number of which is only limited by the supply of raw material. It is also used for making Utrecht velvet, or furniture plush, for the upholstering of railway cars, etc. The mohair used in the manufacture of seal plushes for ladies' cloaks, is made from the first clip in the second year of the animal, and is hard to obtain, selling at Constantinople at seventy-five cents per pound. Until the last few years England held an entire monopoly of the spinning and manufacture of mohair, but after many attemps our manufacturers have succeeded in making goods that not only compare favorably, but excel those of the bes. English makes. [See Mohair]