Modes of arrangement must always vary according to the finish of the goods in vogue. As fashion requires a dressy or soft finish, every department is affected; and as in silks, the old moire antique, which used to be opened and suspended from the top of the window, gives place to softer makes, which may be shown in some pretty puffing; or still softer twills, which can only be shown in graceful folds or puckerings. In the dress department winceys and camlets have no longer a place, but beige and fabrics of similar texture require to be dealt with. Among cottons, pique, marcella, lawn, and other harsh fabrics are laid aside for soft and delicate sateens; but here we have very little change in the mode of display; choice designs will bear much the same arrangement as stouter goods. The custom of displaying pieces of goods in piles increases every day, and a "stocky" window is looked upon as perfection; but over-stocked windows allow of very little change, consequently the effect is soon minimized, the object should be to introduce variety by puffing or folding. A nice display of cottons will generally command attention, owing to the wonderful perfection which has been attained in printing; and as the majority of patterns are large to suit the fashion, they should be opened as much as possible. Soft finished cotton fabrics must be underlaid with paper in order to look well puffed, as Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4. Paper for puffing should correspond exactly to the length of fold and just a shade narrower than the goods to prevent showing at the edges. Manilla wrapping paper will answer every purpose. A good puff cannot be made with paper which has been used; it must be firm and perfect, as the figure will always cave in or wrinkle wherever the paper is weak or rumpled. It follows that the creases and outlines which form a figure must not be drawn with an uncertain hand> or be repeated with the same paper to result in uneven lines.

Fig. 1.

Figure 1 is formed by making a pleated puff similar to Fig. 3 in silks, but this figure should be drawn out as much as possible, so that when formed a much bolder and more angular raising is obtained.

Fig. 2.

To obtain Fig. 2, the two sides are brought together (selvages being turned in), and the fold raised sufficiently; the center forms a hollow which may be brought to shape by drawing the hand down, the sides being then pinned together at the fold; angles above and below may be made equal. A very good figure is also produced by pressing the under part down to something like half.

Fig. 3.

Figure 3 is by far the most effective to be obtained in cotton goods, and is made by pinning the center in instead of allowing it fall as in Figure 2. The pleats to the right and left must be carefully equalized by drawing the fingers up or down inside.

Fig. 4.

Figure 4 is a simple design made with a sheet of heavy brown paper inserted in the fold, and raised in a similar manner to Fig. 2, the under part being laid flat to the piece.

Fig. 5.

Figure 5 will give a good idea of an arrangement which is very effective. A dress length (12 yds) is folded to place upon a board or in front of a column or pillar, one fold being drawn up to the center as represented. It may be fastened top and bottom with pink tape.

Fig. 6-7.

Fig. 6 illustrates the manner of folding a small-pattern print or shirting to place between puffs or on piles in the window. The arrangement is elaborate. It represents six folds turned in from corner to center; the print being folded and doubled to leave the six folds out; these are brought up in order, forming a kind of pyramid. A figure of this sort is only suited to the goods named, and great care should be observed in turning the corners. Sateens requiring soft or light disposing may be puffed something like Fig. 7, which shows three folds loosely puckered up in the hands. For the purpose of dressing a window of opened cotton goods the choice of figures is considerable. Fig. 2, though too angular to be effective in the first row, looks well carried up to the back of the window. Ginghams or zephyrs may be treated in a similar manner to prints where folded. The best and most effective windows are those made up entirely of kindred material, combining judgment of design with harmonious color combinations.

Use a two-tier window, beginning with three half opened blankets draped over dummies [See Page 503] standing upon the floor. The top figures are also formed by draping over dummies. The blankets on either side are draped from swinging arms, but if these are not available, they can be tacked to the wall without injury to the goods. Nice clean tickets with the price and size of blanket, add much to the appearance of the window.