This section is from the "Encyclopedia Of Practical Receipts And Processes" book, by William B. Dick. Also available from Amazon: Dick's encyclopedia of practical receipts and processes.
Perfumed Powders and Rouges. Powders for the hair and skin have almost gone out of use. The basis of perfumed powders is either orris, or fine pearl starch. The perfume of the finest kinds is imparted by alternating layers of starch and fresh flowers, the latter being afterwards separated by sifting. The simple perfumed powders thus obtained, by judicious admixture, form compound or bouquet powders. The tediousness and expense of this process prevent its general employment. The common mode is to scent by the direct addition of extracts or essential oils, or else to mix in powdered fragrant material with the orris or starch.
1100. Violet Powder. Wheat starch, 12 pounds; powdered orris, 2 pounds. Mix together, and add attar of lemon, 1/2 ounce; attars of bergamot and cloves, each 2 drachms.
1101. Poudre d'Iris. Powdered orris root, 12 pounds; powdered bergamot peel, and acacia flowers, each 8 ounces; powdered cloves, 1/2 ounce. Mix and sift.
1102. Prepared Bran for the Hair. Powdered wheat bran, 1 pound; powdered orris, 2 ounces. Mix and sift.
1103. Poudre Noir for the Hair. Starch and orris in fine powder, each 8 ounces; charcoal and ivory black, in fine powder, each 1 ounce. Mix and sift.
1104. Poudre Blonde for the Hair. Finely powdered starch and orris, 8 ounces each; as in the preceding, but with yellow ochre for the coloring matter.
1105. Poudre a` la Vanille Brune for the Skin or for Sachets. Powdered vanilla, rose-leaves, lump storax, benzoin, rhodium, pallisandre and ebony woods, each 1 pound ; powdered cloves, 2 ounces; powdered musk, 2 drachms. Mix together with 3 pounds of starch; sift, and add a few drops of extracts of tuberose and jasmin.
1106. Poudre a` l'Oeillet Composée— for the Skin or Sachets. Powdered rose leaves and orris root, each 3 pounds; powdered bergamot peel, 1 pound; powdered cloves and cinnamon, each 6 ounces; powdered acacia and orange flowers, each 8 ounces; starch, 3 pounds.
1107. Paints or Rouges for the Skin. Paints or rouges are the means by which the natural color of the skin may be heightened or changed. They are, however, objectionable preparations, and the use of them extends very little beyond the theatres, where they are employed to produce stage effect.
1108. French White. This is the mineral talc, or French chalk, finely powdered and bolted. It forms the basis of the most harmless rouges. Perfume is added as may be desired.
1109. Pearl White. Pure oxide or subnitrate of bismuth in powder. This pigment darkens in atmospheres containing sulphide of hydrogen. 1 ounce triturated with 4 ounces of orange-flower water makes liquid white for theatrical use.
1110. Pearl Powder. Precipitated chalk finely bolted and perfumed. The French add oxides of zinc and bismuth, each 1 ounce to the pound of chalk.
1111. Caution against Bismuth as a Cosmetic. The continued use of bismuth-white injures the skin, and ultimately produces paralysis of its minute vessels, rendering it yellow and leather- like - an effect which, unfortunately, those who employ it generally attempt to conceal by its freer and more frequent application.
1112. Carmine Rouge. Finely bolted talc, 4 ounces; carmine, 2 drachms. Mix together with a little warm and dilute solution of gum tragacanth. For lighter shades, the proportion of carmine must be diminished. For commoner pastes, rose-pink replaces the carmine as coloring matter. It may be made into a pomade.
1113. Bloom of Roses. Powdered carmine of the best quality, 2 drachms, digested with strong ammonia, 4 ounces, in a tightly stoppered bottle for 2 days, at the ordinary temperature of the atmosphere. Then add rose water, 1 pint; and essence of rose, 4 ounces. After standing for a week to settle, the clear liquid may be poured off from the sediment, and bottled.
1114. Azure Paste. Talc and ultramarine, finely bolted, equal parts, triturated with a solution of gum tragacanth into a stiff paste.
1115. Enamel Powder. Take equal parts finely scraped talc or French chalk, and pearl-white; sufficient rouge or carmine to slightly tinge it; mix. Used to conceal dis-colorations; and, without the coloring, to whiten the skin.