We now propose to gather a fuchsia, and to proceed, step by step, to its facsimile in wax.
The first thing to be noticed is the general appearance of the plant There is a great variety of fuchsias, and each of them has peculiar habits, i.e. each of them carries its stalks, and leaves, and flowers in a slightly different manner.
Of the varieties which look well in wax, that with the pale-pink calyx (or outside leaves of the flower), with the vermilion corolla (or inside part of the flower), is the best It is to be found in every greenhouse, and almost every cottage window where flowers peep out at the casement. It is less difficult to imitate well than the deep crimson fuchsia, which is known by most gardeners as "the old original" Having procured a specimen of the variety we have first described, the cardboard plan should be laid before the learner, and the sprig, with the flowers and buds upon it, held in the left hand. It will be observed that the leaves are arranged opposite each other on the stem. The stalks of the leaves E, growing out from the stem D on either side, have in their axil (or armpit), a bud more or less developed, according to the lateness of the season, and a flower on a pendulous stalk. The next set of leaves grows out of another aspect of the stalk, and the mark of one is seen at A, while the base of its fellow leaf would be on the other side of the stalk indicated by C. All these points are important to those who wish their flowers to bear criticism. Having noticed the drooping position of the flowers, pick off some of the best leaves, and lay them upon square pieces of gummed paper, press them close and lay them on one side - then pick off a bud, and lay it on the corner of your cardboard, and put a pin through it. Having taken one of the best flowers, pin it in like manner to another corner. This will serve as your guide to the putting up of your waxen model when your parts are ready. A flower slightly faded may be used to pick to pieces. The flower is suspended upon a thin drooping stalk, and is joined, as it were, to the coloured calyx by a green knob, the seed-vessel or ovary (0). Beyond this is a tube, extending and dividing into four segments. This is the coloured calyx (C.) A division may be made at D, and the stalk and ovary may be pinned down on another corner of the cardboard. The tube of the calyx (T) should then be slit up with a sharp-pointed knife to the base of one of the notches between the segments, and opened out. The stamens whose points or anthers are marked A in the diagram, and the leaves of the corolla, P (the purple petals), will be found to adhere to this tube; these must be carefully removed and laid out in their proper order on the cardboard. As there is only one row of petals, they may be laid in any of the circles,f, g, or h. The numbers 1, 2, 3, and 4, are understood to be points representing the segments of the calyx. The stamens should be then arranged with reference to the petals, as in the diagram, as that is the relative position of these parts in the flower. The long pistil marked S in the diagram of the complete flower, and the tube of the calyx, will now remain in the left hand ; the former should be stuck in a pinhole in the centre of the cardboard, with its delicate knob or stigma (S), upwards; the tube of the corolla should be laid flat on a piece of very thin cardboard, and a pattern cut from it at once. The segments are never exactly regular in size, but the following diagram will be found a pretty good guide. The pupil is now ready to commence making the wax flower; but before doing so it is recommended, to save future trouble, to cut out in cardboard a pattern of the shape of the leaves of the corolla, and mark it according to directions before given. A piece of starched braid with a small knot at the end could be cut the length of the pistil, and 8 pieces of cotton with knotted ends, as mementoes of the length and number of stamens. We subjoin patterns of the proper length of the pistil S, and stamens A. The former is attached to the seed-vessel as a suggestion of the distance required between the point of the pistil (the stigma S) and the ovary (O), in laying the foundation of the dower, which we shall now proceed to describe.
Several flowers should be made before they are attached to the main stalk. Several pieces of very fine copper wire should therefore be selected of the length of this page. Having waxed these with any scraps of wax which may have been saved from previous operations, wrap a little very fine silk round the wire, at. the distance of about four inches and a half from the end. This is for the foundation of the seed-vessel, or ovary. The diagram next given will indicate the position of this organ. The scraps of light-green wax which remained from the sheets used for the under side of the camellia leaves must be pressed with the finger and thumb, so as to make a knob. Beyond and above this, more silk may be wrapped round the pistil, which should be dipped in the melted scraps of pink wax which will remain alter setting out the pattern of the calyx. With the fingers the basis of the flower should be made to assume the form given in this diagram, by folding other scraps of wax for an inch above the ovary. Eight nieces of white netting silk, the length of the stamens, should now be dipped in the melted pink wax, and having been allowed to stiffen, the tips should be redipped, and these touched with a little flour; they must be made to adhere to the basis at the point T, at equal distances all round. A little fine silk tied round the lowest point of the stamens is a good security, but must be well pressed in.