This section is from the "Henley's Twentieth Century Formulas Recipes Processes" encyclopedia, by Norman W. Henley and others.
For a small quantity, take a pan of warm water and about a teacupful of logwood liquor, pretty strong, and a piece of pearlash the size of a nut; take gray-colored goods and handle a little in this liquid, and it is finished. If too much logwood is used, the color will be too dark.
First, soak in rather strong warm suds for 15 minutes to remove sizing or stiffening; then rinse in warm water to get out the soap. Scald cudbear, 1 ounce, in sufficient water to cover the hat; work it in this dye at 180° F., until a light purple is obtained. Have a vessel of cold water, blued with the extract of indigo, 1/2 ounce, and work or stir the bonnet in this until the tint pleases. Dry, then rinse out with cold water, and dry again in the shade. If the purple is too deep in shade the final slate will be too dark.
For 25 hats, select the whitest hats and soften them in a bath of crystallized soda to which some clean limewater has been added. Boil for 2 hours in a large vessel, using for a bath a decoction of the following: Alum, 4 pounds; tartaric acid, 3/8 pound; some ammoniacal cochineal, and carmine of indigo. A little sulphuric acid may be necessary in order to neutralize the alkali of the cochineal dye. If the last-mentioned ingredients are used, let the hats remain for an hour longer in the boiling bath, then rinse in slightly acidulated water.
Mix black and white wool together in the proportion of 50 pounds of black wool to 7.5 pounds of white. For large or small quantities, keep the same proportion, mixing carefully and thoroughly.