This section is from the "Henley's Twentieth Century Formulas Recipes Processes" encyclopedia, by Norman W. Henley and others.
The paste dressings used on russet leather consist of mixtures of wax with oil and other vehicles which give a mixture of proper working quality. A simple formula is:
Yellow wax........ 9 parts
Oil of turpentine.... 20 parts
Soap.............. 1 part
Boiling water...... 20 parts
Dissolve the wax in the turpentine on a water bath and the soap in the water and stir the two liquids together until the mixture becomes sufficiently cold to remain homogeneous.
Another formula in which stearine is used is appended:
Wax.............. 1 part
Stearine........... 2 parts
Linseed oil......... 1 part
Oil of turpentine... . 6 parts
Soap.............. 1 part
Water............. 10 parts
Proceed as above.
Carnauba wax is often used by manufacturers of such dressings instead of beeswax, as it is harder and takes a higher polish. These dressings are sometimes colored with finely ground yellow ocher or burnt umber. If the leather be badly worn, however, it is best to apply a stain first, and afterwards the waxy dressing.
Suitable stains are made by boiling safflower in water, and annatto is also used in the same way, the two being sometimes mixed together. Oxalic acid darkens the color of the safflower. Aniline colors would also doubtless yield good results with less trouble and expense. By adding finely ground lampblack to the waxy mixture instead of ocher, it would answer as a dressing for black leather.
 
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