This section is from the book "The Dolomites - John L. Stoddard's Lectures", by John L. Stoddard. Also available from Amazon: John L. Stoddard's Lectures 13 Volume Set.

In The Eggen Thal.

Where The Road Takes Refuge.
Moreover, that nothing may be wanting to complete the romance of this gorge, there looms above it, at a dizzy height, Schloss Karneid - one of those mediaeval castles which play so prominent a role in both the scenery and history of Tyrol. All of these strongholds have their interesting records of achievement - some of them chivalrous, most of them cruel, all of them remark-able. Karneid, for example, was the home of the Lichten-steins, who ranked, already at the commencement of the twelfth century, among the strongest of Tyrolean families. In the great struggle for supremacy that arose between the Archduke Frederick ("Friedl of the Empty Pocket") and the ambitious nobles of Tyrol, the masters of this fortress were the former's bitterest foes, and if an undertaking of unusual danger ever was demanded in that arduous strife, the Lichtensteins were always ready to attempt it. In fact, the name, "A Lichtensteiner," was synonymous with one who then sought absolute independence from the archduke's sovereignty. Accordingly, in 1409, Frederick laid siege to Karneid with a powerful army, captured it finally by storm, and dragged its owners into captivity. Nor were they set at liberty until our old friend, Oswald von Wolkenstein, - Minnesinger, warrior, and the soul of the rebellion, - secured their freedom by a heavy ransom. In 1760 Count Anton Lichtenstein, the last of his race, died in this ancient stronghold, which then came into the possession of the city of Botzen. But it was speedily sold by the municipality, and is now the property of a wealthy and artistic citizen of Munich.

Schloss Karneid, Eggen Thal.

MT. Cimone Della Pala-10,450 Feet.
A drive through the Eggen Thal would, therefore, of itself abundantly repay the tourist, even if nothing specially beautiful awaited him at its terminus; but when he finds that this majestic thoroughfare leads him to one of the grandest centres of Tyrolean scenery, he understands both why the road was built and why so many wheels roll over it. Thus, after driving for about five hours from Botzen, one reaches what was recently a savage wilderness, but which to-day possesses in the Karer See Hotel an admirable hostelry, replete with every luxury and comfort attainable in the best hotels of Switzerland. In fact, the ever increasing number of travelers who, since the "discovery" of Tyr5l, have flocked here to enjoy its beauties, has made the building of first-class hotels both necessary and profitable. Yet, notwithstanding the rapid multiplication of such inns, their present number cannot well accommodate, in the height of the season, all the tourists who visit this enchanted land. Hence, in the month of August, and even in the latter half of July, rooms should be always ordered in advance; or, better still, one should, if possible, arrange his plans so as to make his tour of. the Dolomites a little before or after the great rush of travel. Moreover, not only have hotels transformed, within the last few years, the traveling conditions in Tyrol, but many new routes have been opened, several others are in process of construction, and many more have been projected; so that the visitor will soon be able to drive from one valley into another, over mountain passes, through practically the entire country of the Dolomites. Thus Karer See, for example, is no longer, like the Grödner Thal, a cul-de-sac for carriages; since now a noble driveway leads thence over the Costalunga Pass into the imposing Fassa Thal, and on to the far-famed region of Madonna di Castrozza.

Crossing The Tortuous Stream.
The Karer See, which gives to the hotel its name, is a small mountain lake of pure, clear water, reflecting like a mirror the glorious mountains which surround it. These form, of course, the real attraction of the place, and are among the most extraordinary and impressive of the Dolomites. Not only are they grand and even terrible in form, - ranking among the hardest and most dangerous to ascend, - but in respect to color they are unsurpassed. Indeed, the principal range of mountains visible here is called the Rosengarten, from the deep roseate color which its rocks assume. As has been said, all of the Dolomites possess remarkable coloring, which varies, naturally, with conditions of the atmosphere; but the unique, unearthly light which sometimes comes upon them is not always seen, and cannot be as confidently looked for as the sunset glow upon the summit of the Jungfrau. Thus, while I have enjoyed some beautiful effects of color at Cortina and St. Ulrich, I have beheld the marvelous hues of which one hears so much only upon the Rosengarten. A charming legend, dating from the eleventh century, associates this name with a mythological ruler of the region, called King Laurin, sovereign of the dwarfs. Here he is said to have lived, and on the slope of these mountains was his magic garden. Hence, when these summits glowed like deep red roses, upon which fields of ice and snow glistened like sparkling drops of dew, the peasants spoke of "Koenig Laurin's Rosengarten" and its jeweled flowers.
 
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