1009. Note

Note. Glossy prints should be ferrotyped in the usual way, by placing the face of print in contact with the tins or glass.

1009a. Iris. Grade A. Regular weight stock, smooth and semi-matte surface.

Grade B. Double weight stock, smooth, semi-matte surface.

Grade C. Double weight stock, smooth absolute matte surface (no lustre).

Grade D. Double weight stock, medium rough, absolute matte surface (no lustre).

Grade E. Double weight buff stock, medium rough, absolute matte surface (no lustre).

Grade A is used mostly for mounting on card mounts.

Grades B and C are used in folders and for work where solid mounting is not desired, although they may also be mounted solid.

The same applies to Grades D and E, and these grades, on account of their surface, are used to a great extent for the larger size pictures, and where broad, artistic effects are desired.

Grade E is coated on a buff-colored stock suitable for both black and white and sepia tones. The color of this stock is in perfect harmony with sepia, and very beautiful sepia effects are obtained by the use of this grade of Iris.

1009b Non-Curling Paper. This brand is made in two surfaces - Satin, which is regular weight stock, having a smooth semi-matte surface, and matte, which is also of regular weight, but has an absolutely smooth matte surface

(no lustre). Both the Satin and Matte are made in three grades of contrasts - hard, medium, and soft. Non-curling is also furnished on heavy stock, which is known as extra heavy, as it is supplied on double weight paper. It has a smooth semi-matte surface. This latter grade is made in medium contrast only. Non-curling post cards are furnished in the same weight, surface and contrast as the extra heavy paper.

1009c. Sepia Tones (Re-development). Like all other photographic processes, the success of re-development depends on intelligent handling. It is of utmost importance that the black and white print intended to be re-developed be fully developed; i. e., the silver in the print must be fully reduced. This requires that the original print be given normal exposure and allowed to remain in the developer until development is complete. A strong developer is best to use on prints intended to be re-developed, and care must be exercised in the use of potassium bromide, as too much will restrain the action of the developer and make it difficult to obtain full reduction or development. Develop the prints as far as they will develop without fogging the whites. Be sure the prints are well separated during fixing, to insure even and thorough action of the hypo. Then wash for one hour in running water, at the same time carefully handling the prints in order to eliminate all traces of hypo. Bleach in



64 ozs.

Ferricyanide of Potassium (Red Prussiate) ..

1/2 oz.

Bromide of Potash.............................

1/2 oz.

Aqua Ammonia.......................

30 to 40 drops

Bleach prints until the last trace of black has disappeared from the densest shadows; then rinse in clear water until the excess of bleacher has been removed, and re-develop in



32 ozs.

Sulphide of Soda (not Sulphite) ..........

1/2 oz.

Prints will instantly re-develop to rich sepia in this solution, if directions have been closely followed. Wash for one hour and dry.

1009d. Sepia Tones (Double Re-Development). This process will produce a true sepia tone on Iris, also warmer or colder browns, as desired. The tone is easily controlled in the manipulation and all of the delicate gradations and fine quality of a black and white Iris print are preserved. Make Iris prints in the regular way, and after they are thoroughly and evenly fixed, wash to eliminate all hypo and bleach in



64 ozs.

Ferricyanide of Potash (Red Prussiate) ...

1/2 oz.

Bromide of Potash..........................................

1/2 oz.

Aqua Ammonia (stronger ammonia)....

30 to 40 drops

Prints should be bleached until the last trace of black has disappeared from the deepest shadows. Longer immersion will do no harm, but is unnecessary. After prints are bleached they should be well separated in running water and washed for at least ten minutes, and should then be partially re-developed in



24 ozs.

Iris Developer.....................

8 ozs.

Bromide of Potash (saturated solution)...

20 drops

This is a weak developer and the tray should be rocked to insure an even action of this solution on the prints. In this solution the image will re-develop slowly and will first appear of a reddish color. For a good sepia tone, prints should remain in the Solution B until the last trace of red has disappeared from the deeper shadows and the print has a purplish appearance evenly over its entire surface. Prints should then be rinsed in Acetic Acid water (regular Short Stop) to instantly check the action of Solution B, and should be washed in running water for ten minutes and separated well during washing.

1009e. Re-development is then completed in

Solution C


32 ozs.

Sulphide of Soda (not Sulphite)...........

1/2 oz.

Allow prints to remain in Solution C for about thirty seconds, until the action is complete; then wash for one-half hour and dry.

1009f. NOTES. The action of Solution A and Solution C is a complete action and does not require watching.

The action of Solution B determines the finished tone of the print. The longer the immersion in Solution B the colder will be the tone of the print when finished. This makes it possible to obtain any desired tone, and a few trials is all that is necessary to determine how far to carry prints in Solution B, to produce the desired sepia color in the finished print.

After determining this point and becoming familiar with the appearance of the partially re-developed image in Solution B, the process is mastered.

Solutions A and C are the same as those used in single re-development, and the departure in this process is the introduction of Solution B as a controller of tone.

Solution B is a weak developer and should not be overworked. Keep prints completely separated in Solution B to insure an even action on the entire surface of the print.

Be sure to rinse or wash and separate prints as directed between baths. Thoroughness in handling between baths is essential, and carelessness in observing this point may cause uneven spots and streaks in prints.

A separate tray should be used for the Sulphide Solution, and this tray should be used for no other purpose. All trays used in re-development should be clean.

The Sulphide Solution should be kept in a tightly corked bottle or it will lose its strength in a short time.

When handling good-sized batches of prints they may be run through Solutions A and C without relation to subjects. In Solution B each subject (all prints from one negative) should be run through one after another to insure uniform depth and tone. This suggestion makes it easy to produce each individual order uniform and without uncertainty,