Self-trimmings denote the use of the material of the garment itself in some manner of decoration; it may be in any one of the following forms:

Bindings.

Cordings.

Tuckings.

Plaitings.

## Bias Cutting

Since a number of these trimmings require the material to be cut on a true bias, it may be well to review bias cutting in relation to dressmaking. Fold material so that the warp threads are parallel with the woof threads, but when cutting bias strips of diagonal or twilled materials, for folds, bindings, or pipings, observe the following rule: Fold the corner of the material toward which the twill runs, so that the twill will run across the bias strip instead of lengthwise, as the latter mars the effect in both weave and color (Figs. 222 and 223). Measure at right angles to the fold, depth desired for the bias strip. Do this at several points along the strip, and mark with pins or chalk. Cut through these marks on both thicknesses; also through fold. Repeat, measuring from cut edge of material until enough strips have been cut to serve your purpose. Join bias strips by hand or machine, as seems best for the material, letting ends extend (Fig. 2225). Do not remove selvedge unless very heavy. Clip if necessary. When cutting bias strips from twilled material be careful to cut them correctly as regards the twill which should run at right angles to the bias edge (Fig. 223A). In calculating quantity of additional material necessary for trimming of the same, or another kind, the following table will prove a help in making calculations.

Table of Measures Showing Length Along Selvedge when Width of Bias Strip is Given.1

 When the width of a bias strip is The length along the selvedge is inches inches 0.5 0-6 1.0 1-3 1.5 2-1 2.0 2-6 2.5 3-4 3.0 4-2 3.5 5-0 4.0 5-5 4.5 6-3 5.0 7-1 5.5 7-6 6.0 8-4
 When the width of a bias strip is The length along the selvedge is inches inches 6.5 9-1 7.0 9-7 7.5 10-5 8.0 11-2 8.5 12-0 9.0 12-6 9.5 13-3 10.0 14-1 10.5 14-7 11.0 15-4 11.5 16-2 12.0 17-0

The number after the dash represents the number of eighths of an inch, e.g., 26-7 means 26 7/8 inches.

 When the width of cloth is The length of a true bias strip is inches inches 18 25-4 19 26-7 20 28-2 21 29-6 22 31-1 23 32-4 24 33-7 25 35-3 26 36-6 27 38-1 28 39-5 29 41-0 30 42-3 31 43-7 32 45-2 33 46-5 34 48-1 35 49-4 36 50-7 37 52-3 38 53-6 39 55-1
 When the width of cloth is The length of a true bias strip is inches inches 40 56-5 41 58-0 42 59-3 43 60-6 44 62-2 45 63-5 46 65-0 47 66-4 48 67-7 49 69-2 50 70-6 51 72-1 52 73-4 53 75-0 54 76-3 55 77-6 56 79-1 57 80-5 58 82-0 59 83-3 60 84-7

1 By permission of Professor Clifford B. Upton, Teachers College, Columbia University.