This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.
An attractive foot-trimming for a straight skirt may be made by turning the hem on the outside of the skirt, and stitching it down to the skirt, or edging the top with a cord or piping. To reverse hem, stitch the seams of the skirt far enough down to come a little below the top of the hem, the depth of which must have been previously planned. Clip the seams, and turn them through to the right side of the garment, then turn hem and baste. This can be done only where material of skirt shows no difference between right and wrong sides (Fig. 233).
Two kinds of bound buttonholes are used, one purely for ornamentation, the other for use as well. These will be discussed in the order mentioned:
1. Mark place for buttonhole and size with thread. Place straight strip of cambric or lawn, wider than the length of the buttonhole, on the under side of the garment to stay material. Lay two bias strips of material, right sides to right side of garment, and edges meeting at line for buttonhole. Turn the ends of the bias material back at the ends of the buttonhole. Stitch by hand or machine, one-eighth inch from line of buttonhole. Cut through buttonhole and turn binding through to wrong side, not turning the seam of the buttonhole. Run binding to wrong side of material so stitches will not show through. Trim edges of binding and overcast to cambric. The ends of this buttonhole are not protected at all.
2. Lay a lengthwise strip of cambric or lawn, wider than the length of the buttonhole, on the under side of the garment, where the buttonholes are to be cut. Mark with colored thread the place and. length of the buttonhole. Baste a strip of bias material, two inches longer than the length of the buttonhole and one and one-half inches wide, over the place marked for it, right sides together, center of bias strip on the line of the buttonhole; mark buttonhole through it with colored thread, then stitch by hand or machine right around the marking, allowing as narrow a seam as possible and running it off to nothing at the ends of the buttonhole. Cut between the two rows of stitching and turn the binding through to the wrong side and run to the cambric stay. Trim away what is unnecessary and overcast edges. Cut holes in the facing of the garment over the buttonholes, and hem facing down to the inside of the buttonhole.
Fig. 234. - Bound buttonhole for decoration; A, cambric stay on under side garment; B, binding basted and stitched around slit; C, binding turned through to wrong side, corners folded in to form miters.
3. Similar to No. 2, except in manner of stitching, which should be square at the ends, making a perfectly even turn on the binding which can be folded in diagonally, as a miter, at the corner (Fig. 234).