This section is from the book "Arts & Crafts Magazine Vol1-2", by Hutchinson & Company.
(Concluded from page 41.)
The silk part of the embroidery should be commenced first in feather-stitch as shown in the enlarged portion, and the veins may be put in afterward with fine Japanese gold stitched down with Maltese silk, or a very fine cord may be used. As a suggestion for colouring, the lower portion of the scroll might be worked in very delicate shades of broken red, running into apricot tones toward the top; the next part of the scroll would go well in delicate blues, running into grey greens for the interlacing stalks, and the two upper leaves. The little jewel-like enrichments should be a return to and emphasise the colouring, being in each case a little more intense in tone than the mass of embroidery. It would probably be necessary to work in some strong colours in these portions, and gold should be introduced either to outline them, or, if need be, worked in in small masses.
The monogram is intended to be entirely worked in gold diaper. Fine Japanese gold is to be laid in straight lines side by side, and stitched down in a pattern of diagonal lines with red silk. The cross should have the red stitchings going across the straight lines, so as to mark the difference in the two letters, or, if carefully chosen, blue might be used for stitching the latter. The jewel in the centre of the cross would probably look best worked in satin-stitch of red, and edged with gold thread. Both letters forming the monogram should be outlined after the work is finished with a double row of Japanese gold thread, or with a gold cord having red silk twisted with it. If thick Japanese gold is used it may be twisted together and sewn with red silk, or a narrow red cord may be laid on each side of the gold, and all sewn down together with red silk. The red outline is necessary to throw up the work. Of course, if blue stitchings should be used for the cross, blue cord must be used in the outline also. When both ends of the stole are finished the centre must be neatly joined together, and the small cross marked just over the joining, and it must be tacked on to the backing in the same way as the ends were. This small cross may either be worked in gold diaper, like the monogram, or it will probably look equally well worked in featherstitch of gold-coloured silk and outlined with gold thread and red cord.
The embroidery has, of course, been worked through the backing, which must be cut to the size of the interlining and cut off above the limit of the work. If it is necessary to paste the work to secure the ends, it cannot be done too carefully, only a very little shoemaker's paste rubbed in with the fingers before the work is untraimed, and allowed to dry slowly.
The stole will require great nicety in making up, in order that it may hang well. Some stoles are made up by slip-stitching the edges, but a very narrow gold-coloured or red cord, neatly sewn on last thing all round the edges is a decided improvement and makes altogether a firmer and more satisfactory finish. If this plan is chosen, it will only be necessary to seam the edges all round with fine silk, as the cord will cover the stitches. If no cord is put on, the upper, or embroidered side must first be very carefully tacked over the interlining, and the lining silk must then be slip-stitched on with invisible stitches. The interlining should be just sufficient to give substance and firmness to the stole when completed without making it stiff.