Diagonal of a 21/2 Inch Square.
Cotton, No. 80-100.
Needle, No. 10-11.
A gusset is a small piece of material (usually triangular) put in the openings of sleeves, shirts and drawers, to increase the width and to strengthen the garment.
The upper part of the triangle overhanded into the seam or into the cut on the right side of the garment, and the lower part of it, which turns back as a lining on the wrong side and acts as a stay, give great durability to the seam.
Folding of the Gusset.
To fold a trianglar gusset, take a triangular piece of muslin and (1) turn a narrow fold on all three sides of it (the two sides first and then the base). (2) Make a crease exactly through the triangle from the apex to the base.( Fig. 25.) (3) Turn the apex down to about 1/8 of an inch at the base. (Fig. 26.) The new triangle thus formed is the gusset proper, while the remainder will serve for the lining or stay. (4) Turn each point of the
base into another equilateral triangle, which will make the piece hexagonal in shape. Cut off the unnecessary material in this new turn so it will leave only a small fold. (Figs. 27 and 28.) (5) Place the apex of the triangle (with the folds turned to the wrong side of the garment) at the end of the seam or of the cut needing strengthening. Overhand it on both sides from the apex to the crease made when it was folded into the second triangle. (Fig. 28.) (6) After the triangle is overhanded, turn the remaining part of the gusset to the wrong side of the garment, baste it carefully, placing the lengthwise crease at the center of the seam or the cut, and laying the side folds of the gusset so they will extend along warp and woof threads. The lining must lie perfectly flat. Hem it down carefully. (Fig. 29.) (7) Put a line of stitching on the right side of the garment across the bottom of the gusset where it folds back. This will keep it flat and improve the appearance.
Take a piece of muslin 4 x 4 inches. Cut it in half down the warp threads, join the two pieces together 1 1/2 inches in an overhanded fell. (See Overhanded Fell.) Turn narrow hems on the raw edges of the practice piece below the fell. The end of the fell will need to be cut across so the hems will lie quite flat. For the gusset, take the diagonal of a 2 1/2-inch square of muslin. Fold and insert according to the rule.
There are other varieties of gussets besides the triangular one. A square of muslin is sometimes used with a small diagonal cut from one corner. It is inserted in the same way as the triangular gusset. A square piece is also used by turning it diagonally and inserting it in the seams under the arms of night dresses, chemises and shirts, to give more room. A gusset may also be cut with the sides extended into a facing. This variety is sometimes used in children's drawers. The gusset gives room and the facing extends up each side of the opening and acts as a stay.
The gusset is less used than formerly. Plackets are found to serve the purpose better, as they keep the openings closed while strengthening the material, and in drawers and skirts, are more satisfactory.
A gusset is not difficult to insert if all the steps are understood and if the folding is carefully done. Blackboard diagrams are a help in making the steps clear. Garments with gussets inserted should be shown to the classes.
It is not necessary to teach the gusset in the course in the elementary school. Teachers, technical students and trade workers should know how to make it.