Age : 11-12 Years
The book strap of last lesson, or book mark (Diag. 69), may serve as preliminaries to the slip-bodice, which again serves for this application.
The developing skill of hand enjoys the nicety demanded in the finish of a button-hole, and the technique acquired now is never lost, which is important; when we realize that our part is to supply such for the later stage of life and development.
Make a slit by doubling up the cloth and cutting with a small sharp pair of scissors J inch to 3/8 inch in a perfectly straight line.
Open out. The button-hole should be worked (like the mat and collar) with the raw edge towards the worker, and if desired double button holed (tailor's twist).
The button-holes may be finished first with round ends - having three stitches over-seamed in a slanting direction on either side of the three stitches that lie almost in a straight line at each end (Diag. 70B).
Braced ends are supposed to be stronger. They are button-hole stitched at right angles to either end of the button-hole (Diag. 70A).
These varieties are placed vertically in the fronts of pleats, wraps, etc.
The button-hole with the braced and round end (Diag. 70c) is generally placed at one end of a band, for two reasons : 1st, The round end allows the button to lie smoothly. 2nd, The braced end is supposed to be stronger in resistance than the round end.
Note, if the thread should break while sewing a button-hole, undo one or two stitches and work the end in by darning above the edge of the button hole.
Slip the fresh thread in by darning in the reverse direction and bringing the needle out in the middle of the last button-hole stitch made.
Diag. 71 A.
The slip-bodice that has served as a base for these applications may be finished in a different way by each girl.
The sewing of the neck and armholes may be so constructed as to form the decoration; the plain surface above the bust allows for the pattern-making instinct, and is a chance for displaying much ingenuity (Diags. 71, 67a).
(All kinds of slim machine-made lace should be avoided; it becomes frayed and torn with washing, and proves most unsatisfactory.)
During the whole period from 11 to 12 years of age the cutting out of the slip-bodice type should be constantly practised, and memorized.