Age : 11-12 Years
The slip-bodice again is the base upon which to sew the button and sew in the button-holes.
As a preliminary, a strip of tape may be taken, long enough to be used as a book strap - one end doubled up, and a few buttons sewn on sufficiently spaced to allow for few or many books.
Buttons are of endless variety - with and without stems or shanks.
Without stems and unpierced they are sewn 1. By a simple cross (Diag. 68 f).
2. By a star (Diag. 68 b).
And for both, after making a small back stitch, bring the needle up through the centre of the button with each stitch made.
These and the following require to be sewn loosely, to allow three or four threads to stem or tie the stitchery together as a cord. Besides adding strength to the button, the stem gives room for the button-hole to lie flat beneath (Diag. 68 1).
Other methods are shown in Diag. 68 (a, c, d, e, g), parallel bars stitched, and buttoned-holed; small circle stitched.
For chintzes, cretonnes, and similar weight of material, the stitched circle is not to be recommended, as it puckers up and tends to tear away the heavy material during the cleaning processes.
Button moulds are covered with a piece of material about J inch larger than the mould all round. This is run about 1/8 inch from the edge, gathered up and secured by one or two back stitches.
As a stem for the button, sew two button-holed bars crossing in the middle at right angles.
Top sew this at the centre and for a little on each side to the garment (Diag. 68 h).
Pierced linen buttons are sewn -
1. By three stitches crossed. 2. By parallel bars stitched.