Overcasting is used to finish the raw edges of a seam and to keep it from raveling. In overcasting a lined dress waist, first press open the seams very carefully, then turn in the raw edges of the material and lining to meet each other, and overcast the turned edges with sewing silk; or the edges may be trimmed off and overcast without turning them in.

Materials. - The materials required for this lesson are: A practice piece, using any one of the seams just made; sharp needles; cotton; scissors.

1.   Take out all bastings and trim off all frayed edges.

2.   Begin at the right-hand side with two small backstitches.


ILL. 21. - A Seam Finished with Overcasting.

3.   Point the needle through the muslin towards the thumb of the left hand, as in overseaming.

4.   Make the stitches one-eighth of an inch down and one-fourth of an inch apart.

5.   Take the stitch over both edges of the goods.

6.   Do not draw the thread tightly. See Illustration No. 21.

7.   Overcast with the grain or weave of the material.

8.   To join the thread, put the needle between the edges of the seam, take it through the hole made by the last stitch, and make a small backstitch.

Mistakes Likely to Occur in Overcasting.

1.   Incorrect slant.

2.   Irregular space.

3.   Stitch too deep.

4.   Cotton drawn too tightly, thus curling the edge and spoiling the appearance of the seam.