5. Are the ends finished neatly?

Fig. 102.

Making A Dress 214

Making the Sleeves. - Generally a French seam is used for putting the sleeve together. The length of the sleeve should be determined by basting it into the armhole or pinning it in while the garment is being fitted. The finish of the sleeve at the bottom involves no new problem in construction. For example, a cuff may be applied with a facing in the same way the collar was put on. Instead of the cuff, a hem, a binding or a facing may be used.

Caution. - Remember there is danger of making both sleeves for the same arm.

Putting in the Sleeves. - Most sleeves are cut so that they fit plain, without fullness, into the armhole. These plain sleeves are more attractive than sleeves with fullness because they conform better to the shape of the shoulder. Putting in the sleeve is very important, because if it is not put in correctly it spoils the attractiveness of the garment. All patterns have notches showing how the sleeve should be placed in the armhole. The seam of the sleeve is placed either a little in front of the underarm seam or so that it matches the underarm seam of the garment. Following are the directions for putting a sleeve into a dress:

1. Place the sleeve in the proper place in the armhole according to the notches with the right side of the sleeve to the right side of the garment. Pin the sleeve in place all around the armhole.

2. In case there is a little extra fullness it may be possible to ease it into the armhole without spoiling the effect of plainness. It should be fulled in across the top of the sleeve. If you hold the sleeve toward you when basting it is easier to put in the extra fullness.

3. Baste about one-quarter-inch seams. If the seam is too wide it will spoil the fit of the garment. If it is too narrow it will pull out.

4. Try the garment on to see if the sleeve is put in correctly.

The highest part of the curve in the sleeve should fit over the bone of the shoulder. Otherwise, it will draw toward the front or back and cause wrinkles.

5. Stitch exactly where it is basted.

6. Finish by overcasting or binding with a bias binding.

Fig. 103.

Making A Dress 215Making A Dress 216

Can you tell how overcasting is done by studying Fig. 103? 7. Turn the seam back on the garment and press. Fig. 104 shows three mistakes that are commonly made in overcasting. The first has uneven stitches, the second has stitches that are pulled too tightly, and the third has stitches that are too deep.

Fig. 104.

Making A Dress 217Making A Dress 218Making A Dress 219

Inspection of Your Work. - 1. Is the sleeve placed properly?

2. Is the seam even and of a good width?

3. Is the seam finished neatly with overcasting or binding? Finishing at the Bottom. - The hem at the bottom should be measured and finished according to the general procedure used in hemming up the kimono. The width should be at least four or five inches. This will allow for shrinking and for letting it down as one grows. The hem may be stitched on the machine which makes a strong and good-looking finish or it may be finished by hand with the hemming stitch. This takes longer to do but is easier to let down if necessary.

Making the Belt. - Most one-piece dresses are made with a narrow belt. This belt should be cut lengthwise of the material and a little more than twice the desired width. Like the collar, it is sewed up wrong side out and turned to the right side. Sometimes it can be turned with the help of a knife or small stick. Turn in the raw edges at the ends and overhand.

A Criticism of Your Dresses. - When the dresses are finished they should all be brought to the classroom and displayed so that each girl can criticize them. Sometimes the girls wear their dresses for this exhibition. Make a list on the blackboard of the things for which you think it will be fair to criticize these dresses.

Is It Cheaper to Make a Dress or to Buy It Ready Made ? - Whether it is cheaper to buy clothes ready-made or to make them at home has long been a much discussed topic. Instead of making your dress you might have bought it ready-made at a store. You can learn something about the cost of clothing if you compare what the materials for your dress cost with the cost of a ready-made dress of the same kind and quality. There are several points that must be kept in mind in making such a comparison. First, the quality of material in the ready-made dress should be as good as the quality of the material bought by the yard. Sometimes a ready-made dress seems to be a good bargain until one examines the quality of the material. Frequently, cheap trimming, such as lace and embroidery, is used on ready-made garments to make them appear better than they really are. Second, the quality of workmanship must be considered. A carelessly made garment with seams that pull out and stitching that puckers does not compare with a well-made garment. Ready-made garments of poor quality are often made with stitching that has too coarse a thread and a stitch that is too long. Sometimes in cheap garments the collars and cuffs are not cut with the thread of the cloth and are not put on straight. Buttonholes should be well made and fastenings firmly sewed on. Third, the amount of time which one has to spend should be considered. If a woman can earn more money by doing other kinds of work than she can save by making her own clothes, it would not be wise for her to do her own sewing.

If a ready-made dress cost $5.00 and the materials for a dress of the same kind and quality cost $2.00, the difference would be $3.00. The amount of time spent in making the dress would then be worth $3.00. If you spent thirty hours your time would be worth ten cents an hour. If you have no other way of making money you can consider that you are earning ten cents an hour. And if it were a more expensive dress you would, of course, earn much more than ten cents an hour. As a schoolgirl your time probably has no great money value, but if you become a business woman or busy housewife it will be wise for you to think out whether it is better for you to make your own clothes or to buy them ready-made.

A Problem to Think Out. - 1. Compute the cost of the materials for your dress, including buttons, threads, etc. Estimate the number of hours which you spent making your dress.

2. Find out what a dress of the same kind and quality would cost if you should buy it ready-made. Be sure that the material and workmanship in the ready-made dress are of as good quality as in the one which you made.

3. Estimate the amount of money you saved and what your time is worth per hour.