This section is from the book "Progressive Lessons In The Art and Practice of Needlework", by Catherine F. Johnson. Also available from Amazon: Progressive Lessons In The Art And Practice Of Needlework.
Description Of Sampler No. 2. Materials Required.
Eight strips of unbleached cotton cloth (seven torn lengthwise, one torn from the width for a ruffle) 9 in. x 3 in. Two pieces of the same 3 in. square, for patches. 1 1/2 in. square of the same, for a gusset.
Fig. 11. - Metal measure.
One strip of striped or checked cloth 9 in. x 3 in. with selvedge on one side. Two pieces of the same 3 in. square, for patches. Red, yellow, and blue spool cotton, No. 40. Needles No. 8. One porcelain button. Estimated cost of unbleached sampler, 15 cts.
Basting. - Baste two strips together 1/2 in. from the top edge with red cotton, the stitches 1/2 in. long and the spaces between 1/4 in. long.
1/2 in. below, a second line of basting in yellow.
1/2 in. below, a third line of basting in blue.
1/2 in. below, a fourth line of basting, like the second line. Make these basting stitches of different lengths, as on canvas samplers.
Stitching and back-stitching. - Stitch with yellow and blue cotton close below the first basting, and with yellow and red below the fourth basting.
Hem felling. - Cut off the under piece of cloth 1/4 in. below the line of back-stitching, turn the edge under 1/2 in. at a time with needle, and hem with three colors.
Running. - Three rows of running stitches below this, one of each color, red, yellow, and blue. Keep the needle in the cloth all the time, as in basting.
Hemming. - Take a third strip of cloth, turn one edge down 1/8 in. and turn again with a metal measure 3/4 in ; baste edge of hem, then hem with three colors.
Oversewing. - Turn down the edge of the first strip 1/8 in. and baste to edge of hem; then oversew with three colors.
French seam. - Put a fourth strip to the wrong side of the third and baste on the right side, 1/4 in. from the top; make a line of two running stitches and a back-stitch just below the basting; cut off the edges 1/8 in. above the sewing and turn the seam the other side out; crease hard, stitch with three colors just below the raw edges of the first seam, so as to close them.
Name. - Print the pupil's name with a pencil in the middle of this strip, and stitch with any color preferred directly on the pencil marks.
Felling. - Baste the raw edge of the fifth strip to the fourth 1/2 in. below the top edge and stitch with the three colors; then cut the edge of the under side 1/8 in. above the line of stitching, and the edge of upper side 1/4 in. above stitching. Open the seam flat, turn the broader edge under with the needle, and hem with three colors, making a fell.
Patching. - Cut two small holes 3 in. from either end of the last strip and midway between the fell and the selvedge. Mend one hole with hemmed-on patch (question and answer 45), and the other with stitched-in patch (question and answer 49).
Patching. - Take a piece of striped or checked cloth for the sixth strip, cut holes as in the fifth strip, and make a stitched-in patch and an oversewed patch (question and answer 50), matching the stripes or checks.
Fig. 12. - Sampler No. 2.
Oversewing. - Turn down one edge 1/8 in. and baste to the selvedge of the last strip, then oversew with two colors, leaving 2 1/2 in. unsewed.
Gusset. - A gusset is put into the opening between the unbleached cotton and the striped or checked cloth, according to question and answer 53.
Felling. - The sixth strip of unbleached cotton is then basted to the striped cloth and a fell made, using running and back stitch, instead of stitching, for the first seam of the fell.
Tucking. - Two 1/4 in. tucks are made in this strip according to question and answer 55.
Overcasting seams. - The seventh strip is joined by a running and back stitched seam, the edges of which are evenly cut and overcast with three colors.
Putting on a band. - The other edge is gathered, stroked, and put into a band 2 in. x 4 1/2 in., as described in questions and answers 61 to 66.
A buttonhole is then cut in the band and overcast with No. 70 cotton (questions and answers 67 to 80), and worked with any color desired, 40 cotton (questions and answers 7I to 73).
A button is sewed on according to questions and answers 74 to 75.
Hemmed and whipped ruffle. - Make a 1/8 in. hem on one edge and on the sides of the eighth strip. Mark the centre with a cross-stitch with the blue cotton. Mark the centre of the band in the same way. Whip the raw edge of the ruffle and oversew to the band (question and answer 76 and 77). (Fig. 12.)
1. Cloth. What kind of cloth is now used? Ans. Unbleached cloth.
2. Why is this kind of cloth used? Ans. Because it is made without dressing and is easier to handle while learning to sew and to prepare the seams.
3. Is unbleached cloth the only kind made without dressing? Ans. No, bleached cotton and a great many kinds of cloth are made without dressing. (Memorandum to Teacher. Show a kind of fabric made with and without dressing.)
4. Then why is not undressed, bleached cotton now used? Ans.
Because undressed, bleached cotton is made with finer threads and is not so easy to prepare seams upon; a fine needle must be used when using fine cloth.
5. What number needle and thread is used on this unbleached cloth?
Ans. No. 8 needle and No. 40 thread is used.