This section is from the book "Text-Book On Domestic Art", by Carrie Crane Ingalls. Also available from Amazon: Textbook On Domestic Art: With Illustrations And Drafts.

Take a full sheet of drafting paper. Mark lower edge of paper A.

Dot 1 is the length of front up from A. Use dress length and not floor length.

Dot 2 is 6 inches below Dot 1.

Dot 3 is a horizontal line to right of Dot 1, 1/8 the whole waist measurement, or 1/4 of half of it.

Dot 4 is 1/4 inch above Dot 3.

Connect 1 and 4.

Dot 5 is a line 6 inches below Dot 4, and the same length as line 1 and 4 plus 1 inch, to right of Dot 2.

Connect 2 and 5, making one notch on Dot 5.

With a yardstick on Dots 4 and 5, draw a straight line to meet horizontal line or edge of paper made at right angles with line 1, 2 and A.

Mark this point Dot 6.

On line 1 and A, write "lengthwise fold." Also "front gore" and pupil's name.

Mark lower edge of paper A.

Dot 1 is the length of line 4 and 6 on front gore, up from A.

Dot 2 is 6 inches below Dot 1.

Dot 3 is a horizontal line to right of Dot 1,

1/6 the whole waist measurement, or 1/3 of half of it.

Dot 4 is 1/2 inch above Dot 3.

Connect 1 and 4.

Dot 5 is line 6 inches below Dot 4, once and a half the length of line 1 and 4, to right of Dot 2.

Connect 2 and 5.

Dot 6 is a line drawn with yardstick on Dots 4 and 5, the side length measurement down from Dot 4.

Connect A and 6 with a slight downward curve.

Cut one notch on Dot 2 and two notches on Dot 5 - the first on line - the other below it.

On line 1 and A write "warp," or "straight of goods," "side gore," and pupil's name.

Mark lower edge of paper A.

Dot 1 is side length measurement up from A. which is also the length of line 4 and 6 on side gore.

Dot 2 is 6 inches below Dot 1.

Dot 3 is a horizontal line to right of Dot 1, the sum of the front and side gore measurements substracted from half the waist measurement.

Dot 4 is 3/4 inch above Dot 3.

Connect 1 and 4, and extend line 3 inches to right. Leave more if desired fuller.

Dot 5 is this extension.

Dot 6 is a line to right of Dot 2, the sum of the front and side gore measurements at hips, substracted from 1/2 the hip measurements. It must also be 6 inches below Dot 4 when line 4 and 6 are drawn.

Dot 7 is a line drawn, with yardstick on Dots 4 and 6, the back length measurement down from Dot 4. Connect A and 7, and write "habit back." Extend this line a few inches, then place yardstick on Dot 5, draw line the back length measurement down from Dot 5, to meet this line. This line being less bias, extends below the habit back line.

Dot 8 is this last measurement. Connect A and 8.

Dot 9 is half of line 1 and 5.

Dot 10 is half of line A and 8.

Connect 9 and 10 with a long, dash line, the back length measurement down from Dot 9.

Connect A and 10 and 8 with a slight downward curve.

Dot 11 is 10 1/2 inches below Dot 5 on line 5 and 8, for depth of placket.

On line 1 and A, write "warp," "back gore," and pupil's name.

Cut belt pattern to equal 1/2 the waist measurement plus 1/2 inch, or the whole waist measurement plus 1 inch. This extra 1/2 or 1 inch is for lap.

Cut paper pattern of each gore and belt, on drafted lines, not allowing for seams.

Continue to: