This section is from the book "Text-Book On Domestic Art", by Carrie Crane Ingalls. Also available from Amazon: Textbook On Domestic Art: With Illustrations And Drafts.
Feather bone, whalebone and steel are used to bone a lining or dress. The easiest to sew on, and perhaps the most satisfactory, is feather bone, because it does not require a casing, and is so made that it can be stitched thru, on the machine.
It also comes in colors of black, white and grey.
Use shade that best matches color of lining.
Bones extend from bottom of lining (hiding ends in hem) to a height above waist line that will not show break in the seam.
On front dart seams, finish below height of dart; on underarm seams, at least 2 inches below underarm pit; on side back seam, 1 inch above underarm bone; and back seam, to same height as side back bones.
Cut each bone 1/2 inch longer than length to be finished.
Rip open bone-casing, cut off bone, and turn under casing.
The center of bone is over center of seam, and may be stitched thru the center, or on each edge of casing.
Care must be taken when stitching on machine, not to strike the bone, as space is allowed.
Mark height of every bone on every seam, then stitch from top, down to bottom of lining.
If a bone is to be sewed on center front, put on left side close to eyes, and cross stitch in place.