The wale which supports the seats is about 2" wide by 3/4" thick, and is bent around inside of and fastened to the moulds about 6" down from the top of the gunwale. The seats rest upon it and are placed as shown. They are of 3/4" stock and rest upon the wale just put in. The forward seat must be of 1" oak extra strongly fastened, as it supports the mast. It should have knees at the ends, fastened to the gunwales. A hole 3" in diameter for the mast is cut in the forward seat. It is to be noted that the cross seats are located at the ends of the centreboard box and fastened to it; which supports both the box and the seats. Directly under the hole in the forward seat a block 1 1/2" thick is fastened, with a mortise 3" long and 1 1/2" wide, to take a corresponding tenon cut in the foot of the mast.

The rudder is of oak 1 1/2" thick, shaped as shown. To allow the insertion of the tiller the top is cut off and separated from the rest by about 2" and a block fastened on each side with screws to form the socket. The tiller fits the socket in the rudder head and extends well inboard over the stern seat. To fasten the rudder in place the ordinary rudder hangs, sold by dealers in yacht supplies, are to be used, as the rudder is unshipped when not in use.

The top of the stern board is rounded off, and the top of the stem finished off to a curve similar to that shown. To the top of the stem an eye bolt must be made fast to take the stay for the jib, and a pair of chain plates are to be fastened on the sides about 8" back from the mast to take the side stays.

It is very desirable to fit the boat with one or two pairs of rowlocks, as there are many times when oars are useful. To support the rowlocks a flat piece of oak about 2" wide by 5/8" thick can be fastened around on the top of each gunwale, and this may be varnished if desired. Gratings are made for the bottom by nailing thin strips of wood on to cross pieces, and are shaped to fit the bottom between the cross timbers and are easily renewed for cleaning.

The rig in common use on this type of boat is the "leg of mutton " type with a small jib. It is the simplest rig possible ; very safe and easily shipped and unshipped.

The sail and spar plan shows the length of the spars and the several dimensions of the sails. The mast and boom are of spruce; the former is 18' long, 3" in diameter at the foot, running nearly the same to within about 3/ of the top, then tapering to 2" at the top. The boom is 13 1/2' long, 2 1/2" diameter in the middle, tapering to 2" at each end. These spars may be gotten out of small spruce trees, such as are commonly sold for flag poles, or they maybe worked out of square stock obtained at a lumber yard. In either case they are first worked square to the proper size and to the right taper ; the corners are then taken off, making them octagonal. The corners are gradually worked off into the round with a plane and then smoothed up. They are finally sandpapered smooth and given a coat of white shellac; after which they are again smoothed up and given two coats of good spar varnish. To fasten the boom to the mast a gooseneck should be purchased, as it is the neatest in the end. It consists of a band which encircles the mast and is fitted with a socket to take the end of the boom. The end of the boom, where the prong of the gooseneck is driven in, should be fitted with a galvanized iron band, driven on to prevent splitting. The top of the mast should be cut down somewhat smaller to form a shoulder. A galvanized iron band having four eyes on it, is slipped over the top of the mast and bears on the shoulder.

The mast is fitted with three stays of 3/16 galvanized wire rope, one on each side, and a fore-stay leading down to the stem. All the stays should be made fast to the masthead, either by splicing, which is the neatest and strongest way, or by bending the end down next to the standing part and winding tightly with marline. Where the rope passes through an eye it must not be bent sharply, but must be fitted with a thimble, such as is sold for the purpose. The forestay is fitted with hooks and turnbuckles, which allow the mast and rigging to be unshipped easily when desired and set up tightly with no trouble. The eye on the back of the mast is to take a single halliard block to raise the mainsail.

For the sails, what is known as "heavy drill " is to be used. It comes usually in 30" widths, about 16 yards being required for both sails. The dimensions of the sails are shown, but they should be made somewhat shorter - about 6" on the boom and mast - to allow for stretch. They may be made by sewing the pieces together edgewise, making a sail with no "bights," as they are termed, but it is advised to make a single bight in each cloth, as it is far stronger and stretches much less. To do this, a "bight," or tuck, should be turned over in the middle of the cloth and run the full length; it is about 3/4" wide, and should be sewed on each edge. The outline of the mainsail should be laid out on a floor in chalk, according to the dimensions given, and then shortened, as above directed, on boom and mast. The strip of cloth is laid on the outline and cut off about 3" outside of and parallel with the.line. The cloth may then be turned over, the angle just cut being correct for the end of the next cloth. It is then cut at the other end and again turned over for the next width. In this way all the cloths are cut, allowing each cloth to overlap the preceding one to the line which is formed about 3/4" from the edge. The next work is to sew the several cloths together, with the edge of one cloth just even with the |line near the edge ; sewing along one edge and then turning over and sewing the other edge. This is continued until all are sewed together. At the same time a double hem should be turned in the edge of the outer cloth and double sewed.

The sail is then laid on the outline and trimmed off to within 2" of the true shape, the edge then turned over 1/2" and again turned over 1 1/2", which brings the sail the correct size and gives a double edge at the edge of the hem. It is then sewed at the inner and outer edges of the turn, and perhaps once between. The corners should be rounded. At the corners triangular reinforcing patches should be sewed to take the strain. The sail must now be bound with a bolt rope along the hoist, and the foot with about 15/16" rope; it is sewed on with a sail needle and twine. An eye, or round thimble is sewed on to each corner for fastening, and eyes are worked on the hoist and foot about 12" apart. The procedure in making the jib is just the same, except that the bolt rope is on the stay and lower edges and, if desired, the jib may be made first to get the practice for making the larger sail. As many mast hoops, 4" in diameter, are to be obtained as there are eyes on the hoist of the mainsail, and are shipped on the mast. The eyes on the hoist of the sail are then fastened to the hoops, and the foot of the sail is laced to the boom with a small cotton line. A piece of 9-thread manila rope is used for a halliard, and a corresponding piece fastened to the boom to serve as a main sheet. A snap hook is fastened to the eye in the lower corner of the jib and snapped into an eye on the stern. The pulley for the jib halliard is fastened to one of the upper mast hoops. The mainsail halliard should be brought down to a cleat on one side of the mast and the jib halliard one the other. A jib sheet should be led from the eye on the jib aft on either side of the mast. Cleats for main and jib sheets are to be placed where most convenient.