The sails are made of heavy drill, the process being the same as described for the sailing dory. It is recommended, however, that two bights be turned in each cloth before sewing, as this makes a stronger sail, which is needed for the larger size. The appearance of the narrow bight is also good.

The outline is laid out on some large floor, if possible, using the diagonal measurement to obtain the angles correctly. The mainsail should be made about 9" shorter on the hoist and gaff, and about 12" shorter on the boom than the given dimensions, to allow for stretch. The procedure will be the same as for the smaller sails, but the labor will, of course, be much greater. The amount, however, will not be excessive if a good sewing machine can be used. The jib, also, must be made a few inches smaller. They must be strongly stitched with rather coarse thread and well reinforced at the corners.

Three rows of reef points are worked into the main-sail, 3' apart, vertically. On a line 4', 6'and 9' from and parallel to the boom, an eyelet is worked on each lap or bight; a piece of small cotton rope about 14" long is passed through the eyelet half its length and held in place by a few stitches of thread, leaving one end on each side of the sail. These are brought down and tied under the bolt rope when it is desired to reef the sail. A strong thimble, or eye, is worked into each corner of the sail, and also one on the edges opposite each row of reef points. The hoist is divided into equal spaces of about a foot each and rather smaller eyes or grommets put in to fasten to the hoops Eyes are also worked along the gaff about 8" apart. These eyes may be sewed in over a ring, or the regular brass grommets may be purchased, which will save much labor. For fastening to the boom small thimbles are sewed along the foot about 9 inches apart. The jib has an eye in each corner and eyelets about 9" apart on the edge, which goes on the stay, snap hooks should be fastened into these eyes so that the jib may be snapped on to the stay, and a larger snap hook at the lower corner hooks into the eye on the bowsprit.

In rigging the boat the mast is set up, the required number of hoops and the gooseneck band being first slipped on, and the rigging set up taught by means of the turnbuckles.

A mainsheet traveller of about 1/2" galvanized iron is fastened across the stern to allow the main sheet to travel back and forth. A double deck block for the halliards should be fastened to the deck on each side of the mast, and cleats fastened on the top of the cabin trunk within easy reach from the standing room for fastening the halliards.

A cleat is fastened on the after end of the wash rail for the main sheet; other cleats and fittings may be put on as they appear to be needed. For blocks the ordinary galvanized iron blocks may be used. The main sheet is rigged as shown - the end looping over the boom end. The topping lift leads to a single block on the upper eye on the mast and down through the deck block. The throat halliard is rigged as shown, with two single blocks, the end leading down to a cleat. For the peak halliard one single and one double block are required, rigged as shown: the bridle on the gaff is of 1/8" wire rope, eyes being spliced in to encircle the gaff, being prevented from slipping down by small chock pieces fastened to the sides of the gaff. The halliards and jib sheet are of 12-thread manila rope and the main sheet about 3/8" in diameter.

In bending the sails the mainsail is first laced to the gaff with a small cotton cord or marline, a hole being bored in the ends of the gaff to allow it to reeve through. It is then laced to each mast hoop in turn and lastly, to the boom. For the latter purpose a cotton line is rove through the eyes on the boom and the thimbles on the foot of the mainsail alternately and made fast at the ends. The corners of the 6ail are held in place with marline. The sail must not be stretched very tightly at first or it will be ruined; it must be allowed to wrinkle slightly at first until some of the stretch is taken out.

The jib sheet blocks are fastened to a snap eye; one end is fastened to an eye in the deck, the other runs through a fair leader and aft to the cleat. Note that there are two jib sheets, one on each side. If it is desired to have the jib set more smoothly a boom about 5' long may be laced to the foot.

After sailing the boat and becoming accustomed to her, various additions may be made to her outfit and rigging as may be suggested by experience. After the boat has been used half the season she should be hauled out and smoothed up and given a coat of paint and varnish. This care will amply repay the owner, as a new boat requires some attention while the several parts are setting into shape. All varnished wood should be kept well covered with varnish.

A writer in the Aluminum World gives the constituents of a hard alloy which has been found very useful for the operating levers of certain machines.

The metal now generally used for this purpose by the various typewriter companies is aluminum silver, or silver metal. The proportions are given as follows:Copper - 57.00

Nickel 20.00

Zinc 20.00

Aluminum 3.00

This alloy when used on typewriting machines is nickle plated, for the sake of the first appearance; but so far as corrosion is concerned, nickelling is unnecessary. In regard to its other qualities, they are of a character that recommends the alloy for many purposes. It is stiff and strong and cannot be bent to any extent without breaking, especially if the percentage of aluminum is increased to 3.5 per cent; it casts free from pin holes and blow holes. The liquid metal completely fills the mould, giving sharp, clean castings, true to pattern; its cost is not greater than brass; its color is silver white, and its hardness makes it susceptible of a high polish.