With some of you who take this book in hand, model-making may be a very favourite kind of work.

For this purpose you will be glad to press into service, wood, cork, cardboard, wire; in fact, all kinds of material. To make your models more useful, they should be made to scale as far as possible. Fix on some standard, which of course need not be the same for all your models, or even a series of models. A model of a plain building is easily made in wood or cardboard. First make a drawing of each part of your building to scale, then transfer the same to a sheet of cardboard; and perhaps if the building is not very complicated it may be all cut in one piece; and then by folding it along certain lines you may form it up into a representation of the building. In order to get the cardboard to fold accurately, take a straight ruler, and draw a penknife along the line3 which you require to fold, cutting the card half through. If the building is very large, and you require it on a large scale, the better way is to do it in thin wood or thick pasteboard. In that case you must cut off each piece, and not be content with folding. Then put the parts together with glue, taking great care only to put glue where it is needed. Supposing you have the keep of a castle to represent, the battlements can either be drawn and shaded with sepia or umber, or they may be done by glueing together various thicknesses of wood to represent the stone-work.

Windows and doors can be filled in with glass, wood, or iron wire gratings. For producing effectiveness in such a model, so much depends on the skill and inventiveness of the maker. Try and get the thing as real-looking as you can. You can get a fair representation of stone-work by coating the card with thin glue, and before it dries, sprinkle some fine sand on it through a piece of fine muslin, stretched over the barrel part of a large pill-box. We give this size, because you must not have a large quantity to use at one time, or it is likely to go in patches. After you have got a surface of rough sand, you can colour it, so that some parts are darker than others, taking from it the sameness of surface.

Some of you will be able to imitate ruins by colouring carefully; of course in a ruin you must not have anything look prim and stiff, or the appearance of a ruin is gone. There is still another very good covering for a model that is intended to imitate stonework - i. e. cork. Get some ordinary bottle corks, cut them into very thin slips, by means of a very sharp pen-knife, and then into the shape of the front of a block of stone. Spread some glue over the surface of the card, and put the slips of shaped cork into their places; and if the whole is properly carried out, it will be very effective.

A model of a stone bridge is a very pretty object, and not at all difficult to manage. First cut the two sides, showing the arches; leave some small pieces of card at the bottom of the arches that can be turned under as feet; glue these to a thin slip of wood, so that the arches are exactly opposite to each other, and at a sufficient distance to represent a roadway. Then put in the tops of the arches by bending cardboard into the proper form. Before fixing it permanently it can be blocked out and painted like stone-work ; or the slices of cork can be put on. In this case do not put them quite close together when flat, for remember they have to be bent into an arch. This requires a little skill to manage. Having completed the archway, set about the roadway. This can be done with slips of card glued on the underside of the arch of the bridge. You can cut some figures of men or boys, horses and carts, and put them on the roadway. Such figures can be cut in cork or cardboard, and a cardboard model of a boat with a man in it, going under the bridge. Streak the wood-work forming the bed of the river with some white paint, and cover it with a slip of thin glass to represent the stream; incline the banks with crumpled brown paper, glued and sprinkled with red gravel.

Models of some of our large engineering structures can be made, and afford instruction as well as good tests of skill.

Suppose we take a simple one to begin with, say a model of Plymouth Breakwater. Look up the particulars as to length, breadth at low water, and height, breadth across the top, and breath at the surface of low water. You will find it easy to make this out of a piece of solid wood, planed up and bevelled; it can afterwards be painted and Abe blocks of stone lined in. The lighthouse at one end can be made in cork or wood. Mount it on a board, and paint the board to represent the sea.

Now for the model of a lighthouse. The best for this purpose is perhaps Eddystone,Get particulars of its dimensions from some book on the subject, and get the model of the tower turned for you at some lathe; it will come out like the outline in Fig. 96, a. From a drawing, mark out all the doors and windows, giving the relative sizes to each, and also their proper positions. Then with chisel and gouge cut them down not more than 1/10th of an inch. Next fit the lantern; do this from a. drawing. The roof of this had better be turned in a lathe. Then cut very neatly the uprights to connect it with the lower part of the lantern. Let each be fixed into its place with glue. When the whole is dry, proceed to glaze it; have the glass cut so that the panes exactly fit, then fix them either with glue or putty. Next get some stout wire, and fasten a rail to run round the gallery at the top of the tower at the base of the lantern. You can work this very neatly with a pair of pliers. Fit each stem of wire into the wood-work by boring holes first with a bradawl. Make the holes somewhat smaller than the wire, and keep them at even distances from each other. With some stouter wire fix up the support for the fog-bell. You can make a small model of the bell in cardboard, or you can get a small metallic bell, which will suit better still The lantern need not be permanently fixed to the tower; it may be an advantage to have it movable. This you can manage by fixing two pieces of wire in the lower part of the lantern as pin3, and boring two holes in the shaft to receive them, as Fig. 96, c.