Surface planing should be done, if possible, with strokes made the whole length of the board, as shown in Fig. 24 at A. If the board is wide, "cross plane" it first; then start at one edge, letting each shaving partly overlap the previous one until the whole surface is covered. Repeat, working back to the first edge.

Test the surface with the edge of the plane against the light as shown at B. Also test from corner to corner to detect twist or "wind." If the board is large, this is done on the bench, using a straight edge, if the plane is not long enough.

Plane the end as at C, after one broad surface and one long edge have been planed. The long planed edge is toward the worker. Note that one corner is chiseled off to prevent the wood from splitting. When the edge is planed, the chiseled corner disappears.

Test with the square as shown at D. The end must be tested both from the broad surface and the long edge. Hold the handle firmly against the surface and let the square down slowly. The last plane stroke must be right across.

Gage for thickness as at E. Hold the marking gage firmly against the wood and tilt the bar forward. Mark both ends and edges. When planing, put the rough end against the bench stop.

Mark to length as shown at F. Lay the rule on the surface, locate the knife at the correct point, then move the square up against knife. For accurate work, draw the lines all around the board.

Saw the board 1/16 in. beyond the knife line as shown at G, to allow for truing the end with the plane by the method previously used.

Mark to width as shown at H when a board is too wide for the gage.