Air and water-tight, for casks and cisterns: Melted glue 8 parts, linseed-oil 4; boil into a varnish with litharge. This hardens in 48 hours. Plumbers': Black resin 1 part, brick-dust 2. Melt together. For leaky boilers: Powdered litharge 2 parts, fine sand 2, slaked lime 1. Mix with boiled linseed-oil. Apply quickly. Acid-proof: A paste of powdered glass and concentrated solution of water-glass. Cutlers': (1) Pitch 4 parts, resin 4, tallow2, and brick-dust 2. (2) Resin 4, beeswax 1, brick-dust 1. (3) Resin 16, hot whiting 1, wax 1. This is used for fastening blades in handles. For ivory or mother-of-pearl: Isinglass 1 part, white glue 2, dissolved in 30 parts hot water and evaporated to 6 parts. Add gum-mastic 1/30 part, dissolved in 1/2 part alcohol, and add 1 part zinc-white. Shake up and use warm. Jeweler's, for uniting all substances; Gum-mastic 5 or 6 bits as large as a pea dissolved in spirits of wine sufficient to render all liquid. In another vessel dissolve the same amount of isinglass in rum enough to make 2 ozs. of strong glue adding 2 small pieces of gum ammoniacum, which must be moved until dissolved. Heat and mix the whole. Keep in a closely-corked phial, and put the latter in boiling water before using. Black, for bottle-corks: Pitch hardened by the addition of brick-dust and resin. For jet: Use shellac, warming the edges before applying, and smoke the joint to make it black. For meerschaum or china: (1) Make a dough of garlic, rub on the edges and bind tightly together. Boil the object for half an hour in milk. (2) Use quicklime mixed to a thick cream with white of egg. Soft, for steam-boilers: Red or white lead in oil 4 parts, iron borings 3 parts. Gasfitters': Resin 4-1/2 parts, wax 1, Venetian red 3. Coppersmiths': Boiled linseed-oil and red lead made into a putty. This is used to secure joints and on washers. For emery on to wood: Equal parts of shellac, white resin, and carbolic acid in crystals. Add the acid after the others are melted. Iron and emery: Coat the meta. with oil and white-lead, and when hard apply the emery mixed with glue. French putty, hard and permanent: Linseed-oil 7 parts, brown umber 4, boiled for 2 hours, 1/8 part white-wax stirred in. Remove from lire and thoroughly mix in white-lead 11, and fine chalk 5-1/2 parts. India-rubber: Fill a bottle 1/10 full of native india-rubber cut into fine shreds. Pour in benzole from coal-tar till the bottle is § full. The rubber will swell; and if the whole be shaken every few days, the mixture will become as thick as honey. If too thick, add benzole; if thin, add rubber. This dries in a few minutes, and will unite backs of books, straps, etc., very firmly. Chinese, for fancy articles, wood, glass, etc. Finest pale-orange shellac, broken small, 4 parts, rectified spirit 3 parts. Keep in acorked bottle in a warm place until dissolved. It should be as thick as molasses. Rust joints: (1) Clean iron borings 2 parts, flowers of sulphur 1/16, sal-ammoniac 1/16. (2) Finely-powdered iron borings 1 part, sal -ammoniac 1/8 , flowers of sulphur 1/16 . Pound together and keep dry. For use, mix 1 part with 20 of pounded iron borings, and mix to a mortar consistence with water. For mailing metallic joints sound: (1) Use a putty of boiled linseed-oil and red-lead. (2) Use a putty of equal parts of white and red lead. For electrical and chemical apparatus: Resin 5 parts, wax 1, red ochre 1, plaster of Paris 1/8 . Melt at moderate heat. For mending stone, or as mastic for brick walls: Make a paste of linseed-oil with clean river sand 20 parts, litharge 2, quicklime 1. For chucking work in the lathe: (1) Black resin 8 parts, yellow wax 1; melt together. For use, cover the chuck to 1/16 in. thick, spreading over the surface in small pieces, mixing it with 1/8 its bulk of gutta-percha in thin slices. Heat an iron to dull red and hold it over the chuck till the mixture and gutta-percha are melted and liquid. Stir the cement with the iron until it is smoothly mixed. Chuck the work, lay on a weight to enforce contact, and let it rest for half an hour before using. (2) Burgundy pitch 2 parts, resin 2, yellow wax 1/8 , dried wax 2. Melt and mix. (3) Resin 4 parts, melted with pitch 1. While boiling add brick-dust until dropping a little on stone shows the mixture to be sufficiently hard, Elastic, for Leather or india- rubber: Bisulphide of carbon 4 ozs., shred ded india-rubber 1 oz, ., isinglass 2 drachms, gutta-percha 1/2 oz. Dissolve, coat the parts, dry, then beat the layer to melting, place and press the parts together. Water-tight , for wooden vessels:

Lime, clay, and oxide of iron, mixed, kept in a close vessel and compounded with water for use. for leather, straps, etc.: Gutt:a percha dissolved in bisulphide of carbon. Keep tightly corked and cool. It should be of the consistence of molasses. For marble, or for attaching glass to metal: Plaster of Paris soaked in a saturated solution of alum and baked hard. Grind to powder and mis with water for use. Can be colored to imitate any marble, and takes a fine polish. impervious, for corks, etc.: Zinc white rubbed up with copal varnish. Give two coats so as to till all the pores, and finish with varnish alone. For cracks in. wood: (1) Slaked lime 1 part, rye meal 3, and linseed oil 2. (2) use a paste of sawdust and prepared chalk with glue 1 part, dissolved in water 16 (3) oil- varnish thickened with equal parts of litharge, chalk, and white and red lead. For wood and glass or metals: (1) Resin and calcined plaster, the former melted, made into a paste. Add boiled oil to consistence of honey. (2) Dissolved glue and wood-ashes to consistence of varnish. Fireproof and water-proof: Pulverized zinc-white, sifted peroxide of manganese, equal parts. Make into a paste with soluble glass. To mend iron pots and pans: Partially melt 2 parts sulphur, and add 1 part fine black-lead. Mix well, pour on stone, cool, and break in pieces. Use like solder with an iron. London cement, for glass, wood, china, etc.: Boil a piece of cheese three times in water, each time allowing the water to evaporate. Mix the paste left with quicklime. For aquaria: (1) For fresh water aquaria: Take 1/2 gill gold-size, 2 gills red-lead, 1-1/2 gills litharge, and sufficient silver sand for a thick paste. This sets in about 2 days. (2). For fresh or salt water: Take 1/3 gill powdered resin, 1 gill dry white sand, 1 gill litharge, 1 gill plaster of Paris. Sift; and for use mix with boiled linseed-oil to which a little dryer has been added. Mix 15 hours before using, and allow 2 or 3 hours to dry. For petroleum lamps, impervious to the oil: Resin 3 parts, boiled with water 5 and caustic soda 1. Then mix with half its weight of plaster of Paris. This sets in 3/4 hour. Roman: Green copperas 3-1/2 lbs., slaked lime 1 bushel, fine gravel sand 1 bushel. Dissolve the copperas in hot water, and mix all to proper consistence. Keep stirred. Glass to glass, for sign-letters, etc.: Melt in a water-bath liquefied glue 5 parts, copal varnish 15, drying-oil 5, oil of turpentine 2, turpentine 3. Add slaked lime 10. Hydraulic: Oxide of iron 1 part, powdered clay 3, and boiled oil to a stiff paste. Stone: Sand 20 parts, litharge 2, quicklime 1, mixed with linseed-oil. Leather and cloth, for uniting parts of boots and shoes, seams, etc.: Guttapercha 16 parts, india-rubber 4, pitch 2, shellac 1, oil 2. Mix and use hot. Mahogany: Shellac melted and colored. Colorless, for paper: Add cold water to rice-flour, mix, bring to proper consistence with boiling water, and boil one minute. Water-proof, for cistern stones: (1) Whiting 100 parts, resin 68, sulphur 18-1/2 , tar 9. Melt together. (2) Sand 100 parts, quicklime 28, bone ashes 14, mixed with water. Transparent: India-rubber 75 parts, chloroform 60. Mix, and add mastic 15. Cloth to iron: Soak the cloth in a dilute solution of galls, squeezing out the superfluous moisture, and applying the cloth, still damp, to the surface of the iron, which has been previously heated and coated with strong glue. The cloth should be kept firmly pressed upon the iron until the glue has dried. For cracks in stoves: Finely-pulverized iron (procured at a druggist's) made into a thick paste with water-glass. The hotter the fire, the more the cement melts and combines, and the more completely does the crack become closed. For china, glass, etc.: Diamond cement, for glass or china, is nothing more than isinglass boiled in water to the consistence of cream, with a small portion of rectified spirit-added. It must be warmed when used. 2. White-lead rubbed up with oil. Articles mended with this must stand for a month. For corks of benzine-bottles: A paste of concentrated glycerine (commonest kind) and litharge. This soon hardens, and is insoluble in benzine or any of the light hydro-carbon oils. For caustic lye tanks. The tanks may be formed of plates of heavy-spar, the joints being cemented together by a mixture of 1 part finely divided india-rubber dissolved in 2 parts turpentine oil, with 4 parts powdered heavy-spar added. Colored: Soluble glass of 33° B. is to be thoroughly stirred and mixed with fine chalk and the coloring matter well incorporated. In the course of six or eight hours a hard cement will set. The following are the coloring materials: 1. Black: Well-sifted sulphide of antimony. This can be polished with agate to a metallic lustre. 2. Gray-black: Fine iron-dust. 3. Gray: Zinc-dust. This has a brilliant lustre, and may be used for mending zinc castings. 4. Bright green: Carbonate of copper. 5. Dark green: Sesquioxide of chromium. 6. Blue: Thenard's blue. 7. Yellow: Cadmium. 8. Bright red: Cinnabar. 9. Violet red: Carmine. 10. Pure white: Fine chalk as above.