This section is from the book "A Manual Of Home-Making", by Martha Van Rensselaer. Also available from Amazon: A Manual of Home-Making.
No satisfactory comparison of the strength of different fabrics can be made, since this depends on the size and quality of the yarn and the kind and quality of the weave. The strength of a fabric has much to do with its wearing quality, but there can be no fixed standard. Each fabric should be sufficiently strong for the purpose for which it is intended.
* Journal of Home Economics, 8:3:144-147.
This material is condensed from Tests for Fabrics as discussed in Dressmaking, by Jane Fales, published by Charles Scribner's Sons.
The warp and filling threads should be equally balanced either in numbers or size of yarn. Dimity is an example of unbalanced warp and filling; it is well known that after a few washings, dimity breaks along the heavy threads. The weaving should be well done with the threads closely enough woven to give firmness and body to the cloth without any adulteration and sizing.
The strength of the warp and the filling, threads may be tested by breaking the threads after raveling. The size and twist of the yarns should also be observed.
The threads should not slip out of place with a slight strain. To test durability in this respect, two edges may be pinned together as for a common seam, and the material opened apart and pulled on both sides of the pin. If the pin makes conspicuous holes in the material, one may be sure the cloth cannot be satisfactorily used for a garment that would have strain at the seams.
 
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