This section is from the book "A Manual Of Home-Making", by Martha Van Rensselaer. Also available from Amazon: A Manual of Home-Making.
As a guide line for the work, outline with basting the space to be darned. Make the darn diamond-shaped, large enough to reinforce all the weakened part surrounding the hole.
Use darning cotton to match the color and the size of the yarn in the stocking. For the average weight stocking, except thin lisle and silk, two strands of the ordinary four-ply darning cotton is used. Use a needle which is just large enough to carry the thread, and do not knot the thread. If the hole is too large to hold over the first two fingers of the left hand, a darning-ball may be placed inside of the stocking. Be very careful in using a darner, however, not to stretch the edges of the hole.
Darning is done on the right side of the stocking. Start at the right side of the hole just inside the basting which serves as a guide line. Put in first the lengthwise stitches (those parallel to the ribs in the stocking), using short, running stitches. In turning from one row of stitches to the next, loops must be left in the darning cotton to allow for the possible stretching of the stocking and the shrinkage due to washing. When the hole is reached, take up on the needle the loose loop at the edge to strengthen the darn and carry the thread across the hole, taking up the loop opposite. Continue until the inclosed area is filled with these lengthwise stitches.
Start in the same manner from the top putting in crosswise stitches. Interweave these stitches with the lengthwise ones, and when the hole is reached weave the woof threads over and under alternate warp threads. In the next row, pass under the threads which were passed over in the preceding row. Continue until the space is completely filled. The finished darn should be smooth so that it will be comfortable on the foot.
* Ext. Circ. 14, Coll. of Agr., Univ. of III.
Baldt, Laura I. Clothing for Women. J. P. Lippincott Co. Fales, Jane. Dressmaking. Charles Scribner's Sons.
 
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