There is nothing that requires more attention on the part of the cook than the sauces which are wanted to all made dishes. Where a calf's head or a breast of veal is stewed, nothing more will be required, as both will yield an abundant supply, and it will only be necessary to give it the proper flavor with ham, or beef-bone, and ketchup.

May be made quite as good of the skirts of beef, kidney, or of the liver of a fat ox, as of any other kind of meat, if cut in pieces, fried with onions, and seasoned with herbs and spices, as other gravies. A clever servant will contrive to supply at a trifling expense, as much gravy as is wanted for the use of a small family by stewing down the trimmings of meat and bones. It may even be made of the shank-bones of legs and shoulders of mutton; they should be thrown into water, and, after a good soaking and brushing, be long boiled. The water in which they are done will add greatly to the richness of gravy, as does the jelly of cow-heels. The latter must lie all night in water, which causes the jelly to be of a good color. When boiled three hours, and become cold, let the fat be carefully taken off; and when apparently quite clear, lay some white paper upon it, rubbing it close with a spoon, which will remove every particle of grease, and it will be as pure as the jelly of a calf's foot.

In preparing meat to stew for gravy, beat it with a mallet or rolling-pin, and score it across in various places, as this will make it give out its juices; season it with pepper and salt, and put it into a stewpan with butter, only, heating it gradually until it becomes brown, but shaking the pan frequently to see that it does not burn or stick to the bottom. It will generally be browned sufficiently in half an hour. If kept in a very cool place and covered closely in a stone jar, it will keep good for two or three days in summer, and more than a week in winter, but should not be thickened until it is meant to be used.

Tarragon and knotted marjoram, by some called "London thyme," are a great improvement to gravies, as also all those condiments enumerated in the chapter on soups, but should be added only a short time before serving.

Truffles and morels also thicken and improve the flavor of gravies and soups; half an ounce being carefully washed of each, simmer them in a pint of water, and add the whole.

In the preparation of large dinners for company, it is indispensable to procure strong gravy to color and impart flavor to sauces and ragouts, and this can be done by using coarse pieces of the lean of beef or veal, and the giblets or trimming3 of poultry and game, with a small portion of a knuckle of ham; but for this purpose it must be stewed, for a long time, skimmed, strained, thickened, and afterwards flavored with whatever condiments are most suited to the dish it is to accompany.